Most people avoid this route like the plague, but it's actually really a fun route (and it's never crowded). Climb out the near horizontal v-shaped chimney with great effort. There are some jams, fingerlocks, and fist stacks in the back, but for the most part it's a thrash, smearing and contorting yourself in hopes of staying wedged in there somehow. I've wondered a couple times if it might be marginally safer to lead it on gear - there are obvious placements, way in the back of the crack, while the bolts appear to be placed as far back as a drill would fit but not as far back as might be ideal - falls can be exciting because of how low the route is to the ground and the boulders that rise up underneath it. It could be very easy to deck if you blew any of the clips.
Between Feeding Frenzy and Triskadekaphobia - you can't miss the overhung V.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Mar 7, 2008
I've just been waiting for this route to dry out so i can give it a try... some climbers thrive on misery i guess, haha... but for real i think it might be my style, only time will tell... doing it on gear sounds fun, hmmmm...
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Mar 7, 2008
there is a photo/topo of this route on the Monsters main page...
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Apr 4, 2008
This is a great route to get on when your tips are fried as you don't really hold onto anything. Plus, when else would you have a chance to get on a 12d squeeze chimney?
This route is about as unique as it gets. Very worth a go, but be prepared to have your belayer laughing at you as you struggle for every inch.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh May 23, 2008
finally got on it today... WOW... though i do like this style of climb (lots of foot work not much hard pulling) i was a bit confused on how to finish it up... my legs have never been so pumped...
After coming tantalizingly close to an onsight, I could barely walk down to the road. This gets my vote for the most action packed 15' of climbing in the northeast.
By David Aguasca! From: New York May 3, 2009 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+E5 6a
agreed...like so many of the routes at monsters, deceivingly short, but every inch counts, literally. probably much harder for tall people, so kudos, lee.
tried this today for the first time. i got to the last bolt but realized that my legs were too pumped for me to let go of the slopey holds in the crack and make the clip....i've definitely never experienced that before.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh May 3, 2009
Thanks for the kudos but i havent sent it yet... Im planning on getting on it soon however and ill let you know how it goes... i still dont know how to do the last 5 feet to the lip...
By David Aguasca! From: New York Jan 30, 2010 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+E5 6a
As for being led on gear comment, it is only marginally safer, mostly because the gear is strenuous to place, and very specific (at least in my experience). Because of the way the crack flares, the cams that can be placed are either good or completely open. On top of that, because of the positions held in the chimney, I couldn't look at gear while I placed it, meaning I placed it blind, then glanced at it, then adjusted it, then glanced again, then adjusted, etc...
That being said, I haven't done it clean on clean gear yet, one- or two-hung it only.
By David Aguasca! From: New York May 20, 2010 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+E5 6a
Finally! Today I completed a gear-only ascent of this monster.
An edit to my previous thoughts: It's not safer using gear. Unless you enjoy being scared and thrutching while you blindly stuff cams above your head, just clip the bolts. At least that way it is actually fun.
Nice David, great job! How does this compare to that cathedral thing? What's the gear?
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh May 22, 2010
nice work dave! i was wondering when you would complete that mission... perfect style...
By David Aguasca! From: New York Oct 12, 2010 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+E5 6a
Gear (in order) is 4.5 BD Camalot, 5 Wild Country Friend (they don't make these anymore!), .4 BD C4, .3 BD C4. As for where you place them, you have to figure that out on your own...
It's a lot different than Leafspring. White Zombie is leg endurance with some flarey hand-fist stacks. Leafspring is a whole body workout plus the 20-grit sandpaper lining the crack.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Dec 1, 2011
i love that there is video of this route but the only part of the route i havent been able to do isnt shown :( anyone have beta for the last 10 feet?
Edit: i just realized how many times ive asked for beta on this route haha... do i sound desperate or what? basically i am just wondering if tall people can stay in the chimney or have to get out and climb outside it at the top...
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Dec 3, 2011
I FIGURED IT OUT!
By David Aguasca! From: New York Apr 4, 2012 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+E5 6a
Nice job, lee! In the video I continue as I do before, in the chimney...I use a small quartz crystal in a pocket and the mediocre finger jams above the head to scootch the last few feet sideways. How did you do it?
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Apr 6, 2012
It was a bit involved... i still used locks and chimneying but i ended up getting my body ahead of my feet a bit... and heel hooking right foot out of the chimney on a good hold using that to pull up for the lip... i need go send it soon before i forget how it works haha... i plan to video since everyone could use a good laugh seeing a big dude on such a scrunchy route...
I could use a foot less leg for this one...super hard if you're tall...bad ass though...it eats BD 4's and I managed a bomber big bro number 2 half way up :) no send however...lol I left a biner on the 3rd bolt...feel free to hang dog this beast :)
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jul 21, 2012
Finally sent today!!!!!!!!! really happy to have finished a route that i wasnt sure i would ever get... Any other tall dudes done this one? it certainly worked against me being 6'2" but that motivated me even more!
Awesome send lee! great vid! I was workin this two days ago...I'm 6'1... I like your beta motivates me to get back on her for another go!
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jul 22, 2012
nice! i think being tall we just need to be more flexible and work out more specific beta... my legs didnt pump out it was just hard to move in such a compressed position... i did find that the more time i spent on it (or in it) the more comfortable i got, so keep working it!