White Tuxedo 5.5
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 40 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.5 [details] |
| FA: | Taylor Davis, 2010 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | bradley white on Aug 14, 2010 |
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Description Taylor soloed up between 'Bad Sneakers' and 'So Alone'. The climb needs a bolt to protect the traverse into the inside grooved corner with blocks. A climber can also access the top of 'So Alone' from here.
Location Climb up the left edge of the quartz extrusion and continue moving left on steep ramp to enter the groove I believe. I don't know exactly the details on how he got up to the top. Taylor just appeared at the top of the cliff and surprised me exiting this groove.
Protection small trad. rack.
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Aug 20, 2010 rating: 5.5
| Here is a little more description. Start up the easy blocky corner to the right of So Alone .11b/c, when the corner ends traverse (unprotected) left towards So Alone .11b/c.After the traverse when you get to the corner climb up trying not to harm any vegetation and watching ou for a few toaster sized loose blocks. At the top of the corner top out and belay from trees. You can either Rappel here or walk another 30 feet up to an obvious white juggy slab for a fun 30 feet of 5.3 climbing with poor gear. This will deposit you right below Crows Nest. This was my friend Tim's first trad lead today, he styled the run out, without a bolt in the traverse it deserves a R rating for sure. A bolt should be added here. If a bolt gets added it would be a good, slightly dirty, slightly loose, 5.5. For gear we used a #2, a #1, a .5 cam, and another small cam about the size of a red C3, and a medium sized nut (there are other options for gear though). But the traverse has no protection and is the crux, if you blew the 15 foot traverse you would bounce off the slab below. |
By Jeffrey LeCours From: New Hampshire Dec 20, 2012
| After the traverse left, does this follow up the same way that So Alone does? or does it finish more to the right, up it's own distinct finish? The white slab you mention is the top of Fixing a hole. I believe you can also walk to "climbers right" from the group of oak trees that you'd belay from. This will walk you over to the short (often wet) wall that folks visiting Crow's Nest often find by mistake. :) |
By matthewWallace From: plymouth, nh Dec 21, 2012 rating: 5.5
| It stays in the easy dirty/vegetated corner just to the right of So Alone. |
By Jeffrey LeCours From: New Hampshire Apr 7, 2013
| Delicate toaster size blocks are balanced on top of that corner to the right of So Alone. These should be taken care of (or care should be taken when near them). This is high above the toe of Triple Corners (and the trail up from Starship Enterprise). |
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