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Wonderland
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Sneakers T 
Beat the Heat T 
Chesire Cat S 
Fixing a hole T 
Guillotine 
Magnum Opus T 
Rocket Science  S 
Senior Citizen Route T 
So Alone S 
Wendall's Dike  T 
White Rabbit  T 
White Tuxedo T 
Wrong Turn T,TR 

White Tuxedo 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Taylor Davis, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 164
Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 14, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

Taylor soloed up between 'Bad Sneakers' and 'So Alone'. The climb needs a bolt to protect the traverse into the inside grooved corner with blocks. A climber can also access the top of 'So Alone' from here.

Location 

Climb up the left edge of the quartz extrusion and continue moving left on steep ramp to enter the groove I believe. I don't know exactly the details on how he got up to the top. Taylor just appeared at the top of the cliff and surprised me exiting this groove.

Protection 

small trad. rack.


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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 20, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Here is a little more description. Start up the easy blocky corner to the right of So Alone .11b/c, when the corner ends traverse (unprotected) left towards So Alone .11b/c.After the traverse when you get to the corner climb up trying not to harm any vegetation and watching ou for a few toaster sized loose blocks. At the top of the corner top out and belay from trees. You can either Rappel here or walk another 30 feet up to an obvious white juggy slab for a fun 30 feet of 5.3 climbing with poor gear. This will deposit you right below Crows Nest.

This was my friend Tim's first trad lead today, he styled the run out, without a bolt in the traverse it deserves a R rating for sure. A bolt should be added here. If a bolt gets added it would be a good, slightly dirty, slightly loose, 5.5.

For gear we used a #2, a #1, a .5 cam, and another small cam about the size of a red C3, and a medium sized nut (there are other options for gear though). But the traverse has no protection and is the crux, if you blew the 15 foot traverse you would bounce off the slab below.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Dec 20, 2012

After the traverse left, does this follow up the same way that So Alone does? or does it finish more to the right, up it's own distinct finish?

The white slab you mention is the top of Fixing a hole. I believe you can also walk to "climbers right" from the group of oak trees that you'd belay from. This will walk you over to the short (often wet) wall that folks visiting Crow's Nest often find by mistake. :)
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 21, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

It stays in the easy dirty/vegetated corner just to the right of So Alone.
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 7, 2013

Delicate toaster size blocks are balanced on top of that corner to the right of So Alone. These should be taken care of (or care should be taken when near them). This is high above the toe of Triple Corners (and the trail up from Starship Enterprise).
By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Nov 30, 2013

Care at the blocks is not much. Connecting to so alone is a very different climb, cleaner, steeper finish and its easy to get onto so alone.