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|Type: ||Mixed, Ice, 6 pitches, 650', Grade III|
|Consensus: ||WI4+ M6 [details]|
|Submitted By: ||Ben Kiessel on Feb 5, 2011|
BETA PHOTO: The first pitches are visible in this photo. Pitch...
Pitch 1: Climb thin ice and mixed lower angle terrain to a belay on the right. We noticed a fixed pin at our feet where we belayed. About 150'.
Pitch 2: Climb two steps of mostly ice (a little steeper) to a belay directly under the chockstones. There is a bail anchor (fixed pin and stopper) at this belay. About 190'.
Pitch 3: Climb out the roof with good rock gear. Belay on top of the chockstones. About 50'.
Pitch 4: Walk up snow to the base of the curtain above. About 200+'.
Pitch 5: Climb rock and ice up to a belay at the base of a thin couloir. About 90'.
Pitch 6: Walk up the thin couloir for about 100' to a break on its right side. Continue up and right to a group of trees. About 200'.
Descent: The easiest way to get back down is to rappel 'The Calling'. We were able to rappel down and right to the tree in the middle of pitch 5 of 'The Calling' then did a short rappel to the anchor on top of pitch 4. Then 3 more 55m raps to the ground all on fixed pins.
Note: We climbed this in pretty healthy conditions.
This route is about 100 yards left of "The Calling".
Screws, nuts, double to #0.5 Camalot, single #0.75 to #4 Camalot, two 60 meter ropes.
BETA PHOTO: This is a close up of the cave on pitch 3.
Matt on the right side of pitch one. Not quite PG-...
The upper ice on pitch 1.
Under the 3rd chockstone of pitch 3. We rock climb...
Ben starting up pitch 5, this is the steepest most...
Looking up the second half of pitch 5.
This is looking down the lower half of the pitch 6...
BETA PHOTO: The large dead tree we belayed from atop pitch 6, ...
The smaller tree with a fixed sling. Rap 100 feet ...
BETA PHOTO: This is looking from the large dead tree to Ben wh...
|By Matt Pickren|
Feb 7, 2011
This is my favorite route in Eureka. It is not a straight up ice climb for hundreds of feet. It will keep your attention on rock and thin ice. Get after it as I have never seen this climb form in the last 5 years. Enjoy!