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White Toad 

White Toad 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 2,063
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 31, 2007
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Chris on the first pitch

Description 

One of my favorite moderates at Rumney due to its fun climbing and killer exposure. If you like a feeling of adventure with your sport cragging, this climb is for you. Look for the white toads that this route is named for--they sneek up on you. If there is something smooshy in the crack you reach in to its likely to be a white toad.

Pitch 1: Start in a somewhat dirty corner up the hill from the harder sport routes in this section. Stem your way up about 20 feet to a fixed pin. Clip the pin and step out right on to a face (5.7) head straight up on nice rock with good gear to a stance under a steep section. Place a good hand sized cam above and avoid the steep stuff by traversing right along a flake then back left to a tricky move (5.7) to gain a nice belay alcove with 2 bolts. If you gain the ledge directly its about 5.9.

Pitch 2: I normally do the variation called Dead Toad (5.8) which goes out left and is all bolted. The original route however heads up the slab ramp on the right (5.6) with minimal gear then back left following bolts to a great exposed belay ledge directly above the first belay. 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: This pitch is all bolted and is super exposed and fun. Climb straight up above the belay ledge following bolts until you get to a blank steep slab move right here (the farther right you go the easier. I think a few holds broke making it more attractive to go right) then back left and over a steep challenging bulge (5.7) and on to the chains at the top.

Most people lower back to the ledge from the top pitch as you would for most sport routes. Then the second can clean the route and you can pull the rope. One 60m rope stretch will get you to the ground from the second belay. Tie stopper knots in the rope ends just to be safe.


Location 

Starts in somewhat dirty corner and exits the corner to the right after 20 feet or so.


Protection 

A small rack of nuts and cams (a #2 camalot is useful on the first pitch). A few long slings and about 10 quick draws.



Photos of White Toad Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing pitch three.
Climbing pitch three.
Glenn on the first pitch
Glenn on the first pitch
White Toad with the Dead Toad variation.  The standard second pitch goes up a slab to the right of the first anchor and then comes back left.  The angle of this picture is a little strange but you can get a general idea of the route.
BETA PHOTO: White Toad with the Dead Toad variation. The stan...
Chris at the top of the ramp on the second pitch
Chris at the top of the ramp on the second pitch
Looking down the 1st pitch of White Toad.
Looking down the 1st pitch of White Toad.
looking down the third pitch at Zach
looking down the third pitch at Zach
Comments on White Toad Add Comment
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By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 13, 2008

I named the climb. I found an ancient iron Stubai carabiner attached to a pin below ramp. Chris Hassig reportedly climbed the last pitch bulge first.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 18, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

This climb is super fun, the first and last pitch are the best but the second pitch has some fun climbing too. This is a must do for all people comfortable with Rumney trad climbing. Awesome route.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 18, 2010

the dead toad variation (5.8) makes the route consistantly fun the whole way :)

By J Meagher
Dec 7, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Awesome for the grade! I find that each pitch tends to engage a different skill: pitch one tests your stemming, pitch two has a lot of smearing and delicate face climbing, and pitch three offers steep jug hauling out the bulge and a super fun mantle. Awesome exposure for Rumney too. Climbing over the top of the ramp on the second pitch gives you a really sudden blast of exposure :) Just watch out for the loose blocks on the first pitch. If you place gear behind them and fall on it theyre probably gonna come out, so just be careful! All in all, incredible route