||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb, Jason Haas, 9/28/07.|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Autumn, when not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||98|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Sep 29, 2007|
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Good movement on mostly good stone- Since it was cleaned ground-up on-sight on FA, there is still some loose rock or lichen present, but not bad.
Start up directly in the crack, (5.9, as on the FA) or by working uphill on a boulder to the right of its base (tried later, far easier) and gain the crack system leading up to a bulge. Set good gear and tackle the bulge, pulling up and left into a corner with very thin gear (small RPs) and then up and over onto the slab to reach the top.
Belay off of a good horn with a cordalette, or go West on the summit to gear placements.
To descend, downclimb past trees through a chimney and crack system to the West/NorthWest.
On the N.E. face of the Cubicle Crag there are 3 crack systems, from left to right. The left-most of these, 'White Stallion,' is continuous from bottom to top, with the upper part being a thin dihedral, the middle begins at mid-wall with a single branch remaining of a long-dead dwarfed pine tree, and to the right, 'Under Siege' a hand and fist crack in a corner to an offwidth roof to gain a fingercrack and face.
A standard light rack and a few tiny nuts (small RPs) for the final moves below the slab.