Climb face and flared seams near middle of the wall (right of Fender Bender). Look for the bolts.
Can toprope the seams to the left as well, all seem about 5.8
Right next to the parking lot.
Anchors at top.
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Nov 9, 2008
Another classic RR climb. This little parking lot GEM is made to impress the parking lot tourists. Little do they know it's only 5.8. 4 bolts through the lower crux's and tcu's for a couple placements on the way to the anchors (to the right )
|By Ben Boykin|
From: Cheyenne, WY
Feb 26, 2009
We found this route TERRIFYING. First bolt required a stretch on "okay" footing, which, if you're not used to this kind of rock, is quite scarey. My partner Squeak didn't fall off. Second bolt, be bold, trust the feet, bolt's OK; step up left, then move to the right on smallish edges to clip the 2nd bolt, which is just beneath a consortium of barf-bucket holds on the right. Make a combo flared hand/fist jam to the left, clipping the third bolt (the feet are on slopers), then move right, mantling onto a large-ish (18" wide) flat spot, place 0.4 & 0.5 TCU's, head for the fourth bolt, and continue deliberately for 40+ unprotected (5.6) feet to the chainless bolted anchor above.
Take some slings for that. They won't show from below, & I am certain that a local will remove whatever you leave there. Besides, nobody in the parking lot can see the anchor. No worries there!
Nov 22, 2010
Or Ben, you could TR on your own slings, which you should be doing anyway, then top out and rap off another anchor. A moot point, as the anchor has rap hardware now. The strangely drilled anchor bolts on this appear to be solid. They had Petzl quiklinks, to which I added ASCA rings.
|By Rich F.|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 24, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
An "exciting" lead -- 4 bolts in 90 feet. My guide book gives this a 5.8R rating. An early mental crux clipping the 1st bolt, which is pretty high up, and I was about 5 inches too short to reach from my preferred stance. Actual crux comes around the 2nd or 3rd bolt. Had to really look for hands/feet in a few spots. Found a place for a 0.3 camalot before the 4th bolt. Last 30 feet is run out to the top on progressively easier 5.7/5.6/5.5 climbing. Two bolts over the top, but someone took the hangars/rings. Just a couple of bolts sticking out of the sandstone about 1/2 inch to wrap slings around.
|By Paolo Yogi|
Dec 11, 2012
Im a sport climber. Didn't see this in my guide book but I decided to try it anyway since I could see the first 4bolts.. the incline of rock makes it impossible to see above the 4th bolt.. after the 4th bolt I got real scared coz I there was no bolt to be found! As mentioned before 30+ feet of 5.6ish scary unprotected climb (not sure about trad gear placement after 4th bolt.
|By marc rosenthal|
From: San Antonio, TX
Mar 15, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
This is a tough little problem. All the right moves will get you to the bolt, but prior to the bolt it is open ground, with delicate footwork, and minimal trad protection (wires, small tcu, or alien). It takes a cool head to make 5.8+ moves over the first 25 feet with a thin face and a certain decking if you fall. Once I clipped the first bolt, the exposure lessened and I was able to handle the run-outs with little difficulty.
|By Idaho Bob|
From: McCall, ID
May 22, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
This route is on soft white stone, and while it may have been 5.8 originally, it appears that significant weathering has occured over the years. I'd call getting to first bolt 5.9, with a couple of 5.10 moves between 2nd and 3rd bolt.
Climbed with the rack to 1.5 suggested in Handren's guide, LOL. Opportunities for a couple of micronuts, nothing else. Eases to 5.7 past last bolt. The well spaced bolts make this almost an R, certainly PG-13. But a fun climb and a good top rope candidate.