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Start just left of Asterisk Pass in a bolted Chimney.
Follow the Chimney clipping bolts until you gain the face (do not follow chimney) and continue up to a bolted anchor on a flat ledge.
Climb the corner to a traverse around a flake up to another bolted anchor. (or climb the bolted face to the left of the corner to the same anchor 10.c)
This is what you came for...
Climb the stunning dihedral above to a tricky move right at the top.
right side of the Northeast wall
Standard rack to 3"
Kathryn on Smith's biggest nipple (pitch 1)
|By Bryson Slothower|
Mar 17, 2006
It would be nice if you could rap this route. An anchor at the top of the last pitch would make it possible (I think) because of the newer sport climb that parallels pitch 2 and it would ease the crowding on the rappel route down the West side for Wherever I.M.R.
|By Drew Peterson|
Aug 15, 2007
To address the above comment... we did the route yesterday, and from the top of the third pitch, keep going another 25 feet up and slightly to the left. There is a bolted anchor with rap rings. You can rap from here and in 4 raps you'll be on the ground about 100 yards to the left of the start of White Satin. At the bottom of the second rappel, you do have to traverse climbers left about 50 feet to reach the next anchor with rap rings on the big ledge. This was a great route. The 3rd pitch is very very nice.
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 16, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
The fantastic third pitch makes you forget all about the nasty first pitch. I recommend the .10c bolted variation for the 2nd pitch.
We rapped WIMR in 3 parts with one rope. Pretty casual.
|By Jessica T|
From: seattle, wa
Oct 29, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Warning about this route. Belay ledge on Pitch 2 and 1 can see significant and dangerous rockfall from people topping out on Sky Chimney. Be aware!!!