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White Salmon Glacier
Easy Snow
Avg: 2.6 from 10 votes
Type: | Snow, Alpine, 5500 ft (1667 m) |
FA: | Piley, Richards, Thompson, September 9, 1926 |
Page Views: | 5,327 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | Scott Perkins on Feb 16, 2012 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
A moderate glacier climb that is also a somewhat popular ski descent. The White Salmon is probably the most common descent route when climbing northside routes.
From the foot of the White Salmon(or bivy sites up and right) ascend the glacier navigating around rock outcroppings and crevaces as necessary to a point at the base of Winnies Slide(6,800ft) ascend the 40-45 degree terrian up Winnies Slide for a few hundred feet until you able to cross onto the upper curtis Glacier. Additional bivy sites here.
From Curtis Glacier identify "Hells Highway" a snow chute between rock cliffs that gives access to the upper west edge of the Sulphide Glacier. Make your way acroos Curtis Glacier(large crevaces here)to the base of hell's Highway. Beware rockfall hazard here, also potential Schrund difficulties in later season. Climb Hell's Highway onto the Sulphide and continue up to the summit pyrimad. The quickest and most logical route to the top of the pyramid from here is to climb the West Ridge summit route via 4th class or continue a bit farther on the Sulphide to the central gully route of the pyramid and ascend the face via 3rd and 4th class scrambling. The central gully route tends to see the most traffic and is fairly prone to party induced rockfall.
From the foot of the White Salmon(or bivy sites up and right) ascend the glacier navigating around rock outcroppings and crevaces as necessary to a point at the base of Winnies Slide(6,800ft) ascend the 40-45 degree terrian up Winnies Slide for a few hundred feet until you able to cross onto the upper curtis Glacier. Additional bivy sites here.
From Curtis Glacier identify "Hells Highway" a snow chute between rock cliffs that gives access to the upper west edge of the Sulphide Glacier. Make your way acroos Curtis Glacier(large crevaces here)to the base of hell's Highway. Beware rockfall hazard here, also potential Schrund difficulties in later season. Climb Hell's Highway onto the Sulphide and continue up to the summit pyrimad. The quickest and most logical route to the top of the pyramid from here is to climb the West Ridge summit route via 4th class or continue a bit farther on the Sulphide to the central gully route of the pyramid and ascend the face via 3rd and 4th class scrambling. The central gully route tends to see the most traffic and is fairly prone to party induced rockfall.
Location
Approach info same as North face- Follow Mount Baker hwy to the town of Glacier(last stop for beer). On the outskirts of town is the Park Service Ranger Station, obtain backcountry permits here. Permits are free of charge but are required for travel into Shuksan. Continue up Mount Baker Hwy to a small pull-off at White Salmon Lodge. Do not block gate. Walk around the gate and follow the road past the lodge until the road ends at an old clearcut area.
If there is good snow cover(ideal) descend northeast down to White Salmon Creek and enjoy a leasurely hike towards the toe of the White Salmon Glacier. Beware of large avalanches from the very active Hanging Glacier that can sweep this entire here.
If there is not good snow cover on the approach DO NOT hike down into the WS Creek valley, hold elevation when entering the clear cut area and contour around, surrendering elevation as needed to avoid rock bands and stream crossings. This brings you to the base of WS Glacier
There are good bivy sites at rock outcroppings along eastern edge of White Salmon.
If there is good snow cover(ideal) descend northeast down to White Salmon Creek and enjoy a leasurely hike towards the toe of the White Salmon Glacier. Beware of large avalanches from the very active Hanging Glacier that can sweep this entire here.
If there is not good snow cover on the approach DO NOT hike down into the WS Creek valley, hold elevation when entering the clear cut area and contour around, surrendering elevation as needed to avoid rock bands and stream crossings. This brings you to the base of WS Glacier
There are good bivy sites at rock outcroppings along eastern edge of White Salmon.
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