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White Salamander 

5.12-

   
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Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Consensus: 5.12a/b [details]
FA: Antoine Savelli, early 1990s
Submitted By: Tristan Perry on Aug 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Wow, what an awesome route! This climb just doesn't let up, featuring sustained power-endurance climbing on a gently overhanging face of gorgeous orange granite. Start on a ledge a few meters above the ground. You might want your belayer to be anchored if the leader is not absolutely confident at the grade. Hard, technical moves begin right off the ground. Breathe a sigh of relief when you clip the first and second bolts - after that, you're safe enough. Power through the long crux section above, using crimps and sidepulls. Climb like a reptile and you'll be fine. This is a very demanding lead - quite the testpiece for the grade! 5 bolts to the anchors.


Location 

It is immediately to the right of the classic corner feature of Hot Wee Wee.


Protection 

Quickdraws, 50 meter rope.



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By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jun 20, 2009
rating: 5.12b

Great route on semi-technical crimps/sidepulls/slimpers! Surprised to find this one here, it was definitely 4 stars!

By charladam
Nov 5, 2012

The FA needs to be edited here. Antoine Savelli put this route up in the early '90s, not 2003.