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Wow, what an awesome route! This climb just doesn't let up, featuring sustained power-endurance climbing on a gently overhanging face of gorgeous orange granite. Start on a ledge a few meters above the ground. You might want your belayer to be anchored if the leader is not absolutely confident at the grade. Hard, technical moves begin right off the ground. Breathe a sigh of relief when you clip the first and second bolts - after that, you're safe enough. Power through the long crux section above, using crimps and sidepulls. Climb like a reptile and you'll be fine. This is a very demanding lead - quite the testpiece for the grade! 5 bolts to the anchors.
It is immediately to the right of the classic corner feature of Hot Wee Wee.
Quickdraws, 50 meter rope.
|Comments on White Salamander
From: Golden, Colorado
Jun 20, 2009
Great route on semi-technical crimps/sidepulls/slimpers! Surprised to find this one here, it was definitely 4 stars!
Nov 5, 2012
The FA needs to be edited here. Antoine Savelli put this route up in the early '90s, not 2003.