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White Salamander 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Antoine Savelli, early 1990s
Page Views: 1,544
Submitted By: Tristan Perry on Aug 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: White Salamander, 5.12-.

Description 

Wow, what an awesome route! This climb just doesn't let up, featuring sustained power-endurance climbing on a gently overhanging face of gorgeous orange granite. Start on a ledge a few meters above the ground. You might want your belayer to be anchored if the leader is not absolutely confident at the grade. Hard, technical moves begin right off the ground. Breathe a sigh of relief when you clip the first and second bolts - after that, you're safe enough. Power through the long crux section above, using crimps and sidepulls. Climb like a reptile and you'll be fine. This is a very demanding lead - quite the testpiece for the grade! 5 bolts to the anchors.

Location 

It is immediately to the right of the classic corner feature of Hot Wee Wee.

Protection 

Quickdraws, 50 meter rope.


Photos of White Salamander Slideshow Add Photo
Ben on White Salamander, 5.12-.
Ben on White Salamander, 5.12-.

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By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Jun 20, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Great route on semi-technical crimps/sidepulls/slimpers! Surprised to find this one here, it was definitely 4 stars!
By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jul 7, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

This route had zero chalk on it. It made figuring out the beta pretty epic. This is one of the best sport routes I have done in a while. More people should want to climb this spectacular pitch. It is 6 bolts, a stick clip is useful. Remember to climb hard.