White Russians Gone Bananas
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A very nice mixed route with some great thin face climbing, fun steep pulls, and even a bit of crack climbing! Best way to approach White Corner, in my opinion.
P1: Climb up the slabby face past two bolts to a roof. Place gear in a horizontal beneath the roof and move left, pulling around the roof at an obvious weakness. This puts you on top of a ledge. Climb the finger-sized crack and surrounding horizontals into easier terrain, aiming for the White Corner. Set a belay at the bottom of this large left-facing corner. 5.11a, 100'.
Walking left past Dopey Duck, pass Early Times and scramble down a short (10') chimney between the main wall and a tall boulder. Right before you descend this notch, look at the wall just left of where you're standing. You should see two bolts. You can possibly stick clip one of these bolts from here. There is also a tall evergreen at the base of this route.
Two bolts, plus mostly small to mid-sized cams for this pitch. Standard Shortoff rack for the White Corner if continuing.
There is a possibility of rapping off of a slung shrub/tree w/ a 60m rope, but it's best to continue into the White Corner and top out.
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From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 10, 2011
The start felt a little cryptic and harder than the 10c rating. The upper crack move also felt slightly harder than the 11a rating. Lots of big fun moves at the cruxes and definitely cleaner looking than Early Times.
From: western NC
Apr 15, 2013
I left 2 stainless stoppers at the end of this pitch (P-1) yesterday as a replacement for rapping off that maple sapling - for those who want to climb only the crux pitch. They do not interfere with the original start to white corner (early times). If climbing this line please do not "booty" this anchor.
Oct 7, 2013
Thanks for adding the stopper anchor. Climbed route couple weeks ago and all was well.