Gallow's Edge at White Rock
From cracks to difficult sport, there is a wide variety of basalt climbing in and around the sleepy town of White Rock.
Different ethics apply regarding bolts and bolted anchors at the different crags; some are traditional only, while others have bolts and anchors. The local climbing community has had a number of open meetings and established this White Rock bolting agreement
as a compromise for differing viewpoints and to allow for climbing of all styles at White Rock. Season
: Year-round, except during occasional winter storms. You'll want to find the sun in the winter and shade in the summer. Like everywhere in the SW, monsoon-style rainstorms are common in late afternoons in July and August.
From I-25, head either north or south toward Santa Fe (depending on where you are coming from), and get onto highway 285/84 toward Los Alamos/Espanola. From Pojoaque head west on highway 502. Highway 502 will take you directly into the town of White Rock, follow the directions to each crag from there.
Several Webguides to this area can be found at: lamountaineers.org/zLOCATE.htm...
"Jemez Rock" by M. Beverly is comprehensive.
"Rock Climbing: New Mexico" by D. Jackson has info on the most popular cliffs.
Weather station 4.9 miles from here
363 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',90],['2 Stars',150],['1 Star',105],['Bomb',4]
Classic Climbing Routes in White Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in White Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for White Rock:
Featured Route For White Rock
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder) 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c NM
: Los Alamos & White Rock
: ... : Old New Place
Rattlesnake Crack is a White Rock classic. The crux is protected by small gear, which makes it a little scary, but the gear is solid. Difficulty has been variably rated from 5.11a to 5.11c in different sources.Head up to the undercling flake. Place pro underneath the flake and traverse left and move up (crux). You're through the crux when you gain a sharp flake to shake out on. From here, most of the rest of the climb is 5.10. Climb up to a triangular roof, pass this on the left, and lieba...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Bob Graham climbing at White Rock, NM
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
May 4, 2006
The on-line guide book is excellent, but I would encourage posting routes here too in order to get the climbing communities wisdom and perspective.
By Terry J. Miller
From: La Villita, NM
May 6, 2012
I have been out of climbing for nearly twenty years and am now back. I have checked this site against Rock & Ice #40 and old printed guides. I am finding many grade changes and general bashing of those that developed these areas into "modern sport routes". Please stop. The rock never has cared and never will care. Just climb and pick up trash on the way out.
Apr 7, 2013
Terry, that is good advise for any area. thank you. i have seen too many crags littered and just disrespected. we are supposed to be a GOOD example for others.
By Tony Gonzales
Jun 26, 2013
I want to let anyone who intends to go climbing in the vicinity of Gallows Edge and the Old New Place to be aware of some idiots who throw rocks from the cliff above Gallows Edge at about 8:25 on June 25. My daughter and I had just finished climbing at Gallows Edge when a rock came flying and landed less than three feet from my head. We yelled at them, but the rocks kept coming. We called the police and they eventually left before the police arrived.