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White Rock

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Below The Old New Place 
Big Enchilada, The 
Coffee Shop (aka Quickstop) 
Crack House (aka Estante Edge), The 
Doughnut Shop, The 
Gallows Edge 
Lounge, The 
New New Place 
Old New Place 
Overlook, The 
Pajarito Gorge 
Playground, The 
Potrillo Cliffs 
River Crag, The 
Sewer Crag, The 
Sununu Place 
Tortilla Flats 

White Rock  


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Location: 35.8253, -106.1922 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jan 20, 2006
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Gallow's Edge at White Rock

Description 

From cracks to difficult sport, there is a wide variety of basalt climbing in and around the sleepy town of White Rock.




Different ethics apply regarding bolts and bolted anchors at the different crags; some are traditional only, while others have bolts and anchors. The local climbing community has had a number of open meetings and established this White Rock bolting agreement as a compromise for differing viewpoints and to allow for climbing of all styles at White Rock.

Season: Year-round, except during occasional winter storms. You'll want to find the sun in the winter and shade in the summer. Like everywhere in the SW, monsoon-style rainstorms are common in late afternoons in July and August.

Getting There 

From I-25, head either north or south toward Santa Fe (depending on where you are coming from), and get onto highway 285/84 toward Los Alamos/Espanola. From Pojoaque head west on highway 502. Highway 502 will take you directly into the town of White Rock, follow the directions to each crag from there.

Other Resources: 

Several Webguides to this area can be found at: lamountaineers.org/zLOCATE.htm...

"Jemez Rock" by M. Beverly is comprehensive.
"Rock Climbing: New Mexico" by D. Jackson has info on the most popular cliffs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.9 miles from here

362 Total Routes

['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',90],['2 Stars',149],['1 Star',105],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',15],['5.7',17],['5.8',38],['5.9',56],['5.10',88],['5.11',91],['5.12',52],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',1],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for White Rock:
Headwall Crack Left   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 55'   The Overlook : South/East side
Polly's Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 60'   The Overlook : South/East side
Upper Kor's Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 45'   Potrillo Cliffs
Beginner's Hand Jam   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Playground
Holy Wall   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 55'   The Overlook : South/East side
Ralph's Dilemma   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 60'   Below The Old New Place
Cholla Wall   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 55'   The Overlook : South/East side
Flying A   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Playground
Blow Hole   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   The Playground
Flesh-Eating Gnats   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Below The Old New Place
Way Beyond Zebra   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 65'   The Overlook : South/East side
Rattlesnake Crack (aka Sidewinder)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Old New Place
Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack)   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Below The Old New Place
Sinewave (aka S Crack)   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, TR, 60'   Old New Place
Wailing Banshees   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 62'   Below The Old New Place
Unrelenting Nines   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   The Playground
Thorazine Dream   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55'   The Overlook : South/East side
Face Off   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   The Overlook : South/East side
Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm)   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Below The Old New Place
Monsterpiece Theatre   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Below The Old New Place
Browse More Classics in White Rock

Featured Route For White Rock
Pulling through the crux of Blow Hole and Brian Qu...

Blow Hole 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : The Playground
Probably the longest climb at the Playground, with sustained quality climbing. Blow Hole is one of the only climbs at the Playground that doesn't have the big ledge near the top of the cliff interrupting it.The immediate first crux is the first 15', where you climb a finger crack with poor feet; this spits off many suitors. Place a good small cam (#0.3 camalot or equivalent) to keep from decking on the rocks. If this is too hard, try to sneak past this from the left or r...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of White Rock Slideshow Add Photo
White Rock Petroglyph
White Rock Petroglyph
Bob Graham climbing at White Rock, NM
Bob Graham climbing at White Rock, NM

Comments on White Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Randy Carmichael
From: Boulder, CO
May 4, 2006
The on-line guide book is excellent, but I would encourage posting routes here too in order to get the climbing communities wisdom and perspective.
By Terry J. Miller
From: La Villita, NM
May 6, 2012
I have been out of climbing for nearly twenty years and am now back. I have checked this site against Rock & Ice #40 and old printed guides. I am finding many grade changes and general bashing of those that developed these areas into "modern sport routes". Please stop. The rock never has cared and never will care. Just climb and pick up trash on the way out.
By ozram
Apr 7, 2013
Terry, that is good advise for any area. thank you. i have seen too many crags littered and just disrespected. we are supposed to be a GOOD example for others.
By Tony Gonzales
Jun 26, 2013
I want to let anyone who intends to go climbing in the vicinity of Gallows Edge and the Old New Place to be aware of some idiots who throw rocks from the cliff above Gallows Edge at about 8:25 on June 25. My daughter and I had just finished climbing at Gallows Edge when a rock came flying and landed less than three feet from my head. We yelled at them, but the rocks kept coming. We called the police and they eventually left before the police arrived.
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