Climb atop the huge boulder left of Flesh for Lulu to reach the belay and start for this climb.
Climb the blunt arete on flat holds that pump out the heavy climber and make for hard moves for the short climber. Additionally, the short climber might get shut down on the reachy crux of this climb. A fun climb for the 5.12 climber but it feels very hard for the 5.11 climber (especially if short).
Blunt arete that sits high above Flesh for Lulu on top of a boulder.
4 bolts to Anchor.
|By Mike Thompson|
From: Manchester NH
Jun 10, 2007
when i first got on this route i was wicked frustraited because it seemed that it was just deadpoint after deadpoint after deadpoint ....but when i got home and started thinking about it....i really want to get back on this route...its dynamic but a fun route....and plus since you start ontop of a boulder all the falls are clean even the first clip
|By Zane Dordai|
Aug 19, 2012
got on this thing a couple days ago on my annual long trip to rumney. i cleaned the upper section and ticked holds, thinking I would redpoint and scrub them. I ended up cleaning my gear as the rain began to come down and this was the last climb of my trip, so I hope the ticks arent too obvious and I hope someone gets on this thing while the top is still clean.
This part is a spoiler, so don't read if you don't want any info about the route: The crux seemed to be that big stopper move at the 3rd bolt...look high and right of the slopers at the bolt and youll find a little needle crimper...a little momentum move gets you out left. all the other cruxes have many feet/holds.
This thing is definitely a worthy line. the movement is excellent and the rock is perfect. bring a brush if its warm, those slopers get greasy!