|By Zane Dordai|
Aug 19, 2012
got on this thing a couple days ago on my annual long trip to rumney. i cleaned the upper section and ticked holds, thinking I would redpoint and scrub them. I ended up cleaning my gear as the rain began to come down and this was the last climb of my trip, so I hope the ticks arent too obvious and I hope someone gets on this thing while the top is still clean.
This part is a spoiler, so don't read if you don't want any info about the route: The crux seemed to be that big stopper move at the 3rd bolt...look high and right of the slopers at the bolt and youll find a little needle crimper...a little momentum move gets you out left. all the other cruxes have many feet/holds.
This thing is definitely a worthy line. the movement is excellent and the rock is perfect. bring a brush if its warm, those slopers get greasy!