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Cactus Cliff
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White Punks on Pockets 
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White Punks on Pockets 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Pat & Azenda Thompson, Jana & Rick Thompson, 2000
Page Views: 1,253
Submitted By: Brad Short on Jan 19, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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BETA PHOTO: Cactus Cliff - Right (2).

Description 

Begin 40-50 feet right of LaCholla Jackson, just right of a brushy dihedral. Climb the nice slab with small, crisp pockets past three bolts to a ledge at mid height. Three choices exist for the balance of the route: layback the right edge, jam / layback the left crack, or fire straight up the narrow face using many small and one monster pocket. Staying with the pockets on the face is probably the most challenging option.

This is a fun route worthy of 1.5 stars. Note that the corner to the left of the route offers some shade late in the day.


Protection 

6 bolts to anchors.



Photos of White Punks on Pockets Slideshow Add Photo
Nate Oakes leading White Punks on Pockets.  A few more feet to the top.
Nate Oakes leading White Punks on Pockets. A few ...
Climbing at the second clip.
Climbing at the second clip.
Leading low on the route.
Leading low on the route.
White Punks on Pockets.  Climb the slab to the headwall.  Climb the crack on the left or the arete on the right to keep the route at 5.9; climb straight up the face to make it 5.10a or b.
BETA PHOTO: White Punks on Pockets. Climb the slab to the hea...
Nate Oakes starting up White Punks on Pockets.
Nate Oakes starting up White Punks on Pockets.
Leading Oct. '03.
Leading Oct. '03.
Emma leading White Punks.
Emma leading White Punks.
Comments on White Punks on Pockets Add Comment
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By Mic Fairchild
From: Boulder
Nov 3, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

A nice little route for the less-experienced leader. There were a couple moves that asked you to pay attention. Reasonably fun warm up/warmdown.

By Brian T. Wandzilak
Dec 16, 2003

One of the better moderates that I've done at Shelf. It is located near the eastern end of Cactus Cliff, just before the cliff starts heading north to the Gym areas. It is by itself just right of a corner, on top of a smaller rise, and the base is surrounded by cacti.

Climb through the first three bolts to a ledge. You then have three more bolts to the anchors. From the ledge you can go left throguh the crack, straight up the face (most difficult), or layback the right arete. I kind of wandered back and forth when I did it. Fun route and well worth the time.

By Larry Shaw
Jul 17, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Thought it was an OK route but most of the 9s at shelf are better than this one.

By Nate Oakes
May 14, 2007

A decent route, but there are much better routes of similar grade nearby. Stay out of the crack to the right. 1 star.