A well traveled route that gets pounded up pretty good.
P1 (WI4-5): Climb a steep curtain that usually takes screws well. Find anchors above the curtain out left (chains on the right face are for a mixed route).
P2 (WI4-5): Tool over a step to a longer section of steep ice. Top out at bolted anchors on the left.
Descent: Rappel from bolted anchors.
Check avalanche conditions before climbing in this area.
Massive avalanches rip down this drainage nearly every year.
Pro: Bring a variety of ice screws. Long ice screws are useful on the first pitch.
Rope: 70m rope (two rappels) or doubles (one rappel)
Anchors: Bolted - P1 has anchors above the curtain on the left, P2 anchors are on the left as you top out.
Third section of ice to the right of Bridal Veil Falls.
Cruising on White Nightmare
Close to the top of P1, passing some chains used f...
John Ross starting out on White Nightmare.
BETA PHOTO: View from the bottom of White Nightmare.
BETA PHOTO: White Nightmare on the right of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: White Nightmare.
Practicing on the steep ice. 12/13/13.
By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 9, 2013
Can easily be climbed with a single 70m rope with two raps. Much easier with double ropes though. Climb is much less than 200 feet long. Probably closer to 150.
Both pitches have bolted anchors.