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White Mountain Cliff

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White Mountain Cliff 

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Administrator: Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on May 17, 2010
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The hot spot for hot shots at YangShuo, White Mountain Cliff is a massive wall leaning past vertical for most its 200 meter length. White Mountain is probably home to the biggest collection of climbs in the upper grades (.12 - .14). The wall is south facing and so gets sun all day long; while it may be a blessing in the cooler months it mostly is a nuisance in the commonly sticky weather of S.E. China. The steepness of the cliff helps it stay fairly dry in the rain. The cliff is getting massively popular and is a good place to pick up a partner if you're up to snuff.

Getting There 

There have been some access issues here back in 2009-2010, I'm not sure if they persist. The cliff is located on farm land and the local farmers would like to make some money off all the increased traffic. Similar issues in the Wine Bottle area have been kept (tenuously) in-check by purchasing drinks and food from the vendors that setup outside the cliffs, but I don't know if something similar has been established here yet. Implementation of a fee for climbing could be around the corner.

27 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for White Mountain Cliff:
Yangshuo Hotel   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
The Phoenix   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
White Devil   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
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Featured Route For White Mountain Cliff
Now that is how you use your head

White Devil 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b  Asia : China : ... : White Mountain Cliff
The best route of its grade at the crag? Yangshuo? Certainly a contender, White Devil boasts great, super-fun climbing from bottom to top. Ramps up to speed early with a tough, delicate crux near the bottom, climbs to a tricky few moves at mid-way, then a pumpy ride to a super satisfying (and a bit sharp) thank-god jug. The finish is a fun final 10m of 11b-ish jug hauling -- hard enough to fall off of and spoil a redpoint or onsight if you haven't saved quite enough....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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