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Egg, The 
White Mountain Cliff 

White Mountain Area 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on May 14, 2010

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The view of the White Mountain area from The Egg

Description 

A bit more secluded than the Wine Bottle Area, the crags at White Mountain either require a personal vehicle/charter, or some hoofing it from the public bus. The area has two major crags, The Egg and White Mountain, and several smaller areas. Most of the areas are a bit difficult to find, but it’s worth it for the solitude, not to mention spectacular climbing.


Getting There 

Head south-east out of town, towards Puyi. About 2 miles after crossing the Yu Long River you should see a small community off to the right. The first dirt road goes to The Egg, the second to White Mountain and the surrounding crags.

A public bus heads this way but I’m not sure which one (Puyi?). On the public bus you’ll have to get let off at the dirt road and you’ll have a 1-2 km hike ahead of you. A charter bus can take you right up to the crags. I recommend getting the name of a charter company from a guide shop as they will be familiar with the area. You could also feasibly bike there, but it’s probably about 10 km.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for White Mountain Area:
Alice in Wonderland   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   The Egg : North Face
Rooster Booster   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 95 feet   The Egg : North Face
Poser's Lonely Reunion   5.10d     Sport, 90 feet   The Egg : North Face
Eggstatic   5.11c     Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet   The Egg : East Face (Fried Egg)
Chuck If You Want   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   The Egg : North Face
Yangshuo Hotel   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   White Mountain Cliff
China White   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   White Mountain Cliff
The Phoenix   5.12b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   White Mountain Cliff
White Devil   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   White Mountain Cliff
Tsing Tao Beer   5.13a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   White Mountain Cliff
Gin and Tonic   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   White Mountain Cliff
The Axeman   5.13b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   White Mountain Cliff
Browse More Classics in White Mountain Area

Featured Route For White Mountain Area
Now that is how you use your head

White Devil 5.12d  International : Asia : ... : White Mountain Cliff
The best route of its grade at the crag? Yangshuo? Certainly a contender, White Devil boasts great, super-fun climbing from bottom to top. Ramps up to speed early with a tough, delicate crux near the bottom, climbs to a tricky few moves at mid-way, then a pumpy ride to a super satisfying (and a bit sharp) thank-god jug. The finish is a fun final 10m of 11b-ish jug hauling -- hard enough to fall off of and spoil a redpoint or onsight if you haven't saved quite enough....[more]   Browse More Classics in International