|Basketball Wall/Slickrock Divide
Left angling thin hands for 12' to straight up hands to the anchors. Beautiful clean line in good rock, with a bit of softness toward the top. Not technical or cruxy, but alot of continuous jamming. Crackers be warned...
Left side of the Basketball Wall, the obvious hand-size splitter left of the harder and longer "Foul Line". Anchors visible from below.
.75, 1, 3x2, 3 Camalots. Anchor is two newer bolts, with a single rap oval on decent slings.
|By Bryan G|
From: San Jose
Jun 17, 2009
Stewart Green's Utah guide calls the leftmost handcrack (the route described here and in the photo) "Bench Warmer 10a" and the longer handcrack to the right of it that finishes through the buldge "White Boys Can't Jam 10a". We climbed both of them. The left crack was great, perfect #2 Camalot sized hands most of the way, and pretty solid rock. The right crack started off good enough - although definitely thinner, harder, and more technical - but halfway up the stone becomes coated with a layer of white clay. It's all over the face and inside the crack, and by the time I reached the anchors, it was all over me. Fortunately, I didn't fall because I'm not sure how well an aluminum cam lobe would hold in this shit when you can just scrape it off with your fingernails. It's like climbing a giant overhanging bar of ivory soap.
But the lefthand crack (Bench Warmer, White Men, or whatever it's called) is good fun and worth checking out. There's also several other splitters and dihedrals in the area that looked promising. Plus it's such a beautiful area to climb in. The ground is covered with a spectrum of different colored sand and rocks - pastel shades of yellow and blue, and dark purple. The cliff walls are sheer and colorful. Very psychedelic. Just watch out for some questionable rock/mud.