White Lightning 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Peter Young, John Lawrence, Peter Prandoni - 1972 |
| Submitted By: | Coz Teplitz on Mar 1, 2007 |
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P1 of White Lightning
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Description Perhaps the best route on Table Rock. 2 fantastic corners connected with some fun face.
This climb connects the first pitch of True Grit with the second pitch of White Light. The rest of the original lines are rarely done and are highly vegetated.
P1: Stem and jam your way up the fantastic corner. At the top, exit left, then climb up and right along crack systems on a nice slab. Belay at a semi-hanging stance in small corner below a large, arching crack.
P2: Step right from the belay and climb out under the roof, then turn the lip where the roof ends and climb the fun corner until where it gets dirty. Look for a clean, almost horizontal traverse right onto a moss clod ledge. Follow this ledge over to the pitons on the North Ridge.
P3: Rap from this pin nest (one 60 m rope will get you to the ground), or continue up the North Ridge (5.5).
Location About 200 ft downhill (left) of North Ridge. From the parking lot, hike up the summit trail a few hundred yards until the East Face climber's trail cuts right. Take this trail around under the East Face shortly after Helmet/Slippin' into Darkness, the trail turns and starts to climb uphill. Follow it past the Cave Route, over some boulders, and continue for about 200 yards until a small clearing immediately underneath a large, clean, right-facing dihedral about 80 feet high. That's your route.
Protection Nuts, cams to 3".
There is sometimes fixed gear at the P1 belay, but don't count on it.
The pin nest at the end of P2 usually has a solid rap station. You can rap to the ground from here with one 60 m rope.
P2 of White Lightning.
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Jp at the P2 crux
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| Comments on White Lightning |
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By Cody Bradford
From: Boone, NC
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.8
CONDITION REPORT | There is a microwave sized block on the first belay ledge. It is glued in with minimal soil at this point. Don't use it! It has been dislodged after the recent, quick thaw of spring. Also, definitely worth backing up the fixed gear on both the first and second pitches. Starting to get a little ratty. |
By Stuart Parker
From: asheville NC
Apr 21, 2013
rating: 5.8+
CONDITION REPORT | Death block is gone! I trundled it off today. there was less than a 1/2 in. of duff. Yikes! Also rapped off of the fixed gear, if you are questioning the sturdiness of them. |
By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Mar 1, 2007
| I was really wanting to lead this one after seeing the great pictures in the guidebook, but didn't get around to it last time I was there. Next time, it's my top priority! |
By sam.f
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Dec 31, 2007
| You should! It's the best moderate route I've done at Table Rock. If you're up for it I would also highly recommend Waste a Bit, its more difficult neighbor immediately to the left; also very fun/high quality for Table Rock. |
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Feb 19, 2008
| I found I was mostly able to stem up the first pitch with very secure jamming. This crack eat's protection. The exit out of the crack left is easy if you are patient. There is still some work left to get to the belay. Continue up p2 past right leaning crack to ledge and we hopped on N ridge to top. |
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 8, 2009
| Super cool aesthetic feature, but I thought the corner on Slippin' was better. It was nice that this one was a multi, but I wish that second pitch was a bit longer. Oh well, fun regardless. |
By ziggy
Nov 17, 2009
| best route i have climbed at table rock. some people feel that 5.8 is a bit stiff for the grade, but I think if you take the time to look around and know how to stem, this route can easily be 5.8. gear is ample and bomber. |
By Benjamin S.
From: Fairview (Nashville), TN
Apr 4, 2010
| This is easily my favorite route on Table Rock so far. P1 is techy enough to keep you focused with all the stemming and such, and P2 is just absolute fun. Nothing scary about White Lightning; great gear, great views of the gorge and Hawksbill. Highly recommended. |
By Sarah Crosier
From: Oneonta, NY
Dec 25, 2010
| I started leading up this and then it started to rain. So disappointed. I'm coming back for it some day! |
By NCTRAD
Oct 3, 2012
| Lead all pitches of the route last weekend. First time in many years. I had forgotton just how good it is. Solid gear and great climbing. Fixed gear was still in place at the top P1. Four pieces that looked solid, along with webbing and a cord with a ring and oval. Nice to not have to build it. Pins at the end of P2 on North Ridge also looked good, if not getting a little old. If you are there and climb 5.8 do this one! |
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Nov 21, 2012
rating: 5.8+
| Great Climb! The first pitch corner is steep, fun, well protected and has a couple strenuous moves for the shorty. The fixed belay is still intact atop the first pitch (two pieces and old webbing)as of 11-20-12; a couple tri-cams back up the belay very well. The second pitch is a good as it looks, just ends a little to early! |
By Lee Collette
Apr 11, 2013
| Cody...Get Corey up there with you and remove that block!!! Never under estimate the power of people to pull on questionable rock. I usually take a few extra pieces of webbing or cord to donate to the pin nest at the top of pitch 2 and cut away the old stuff.
All this aside, this climb is fantastic and well worth a go for anyone who is looking for a stellar moderate! |
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