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Mr. Mercury topping out on the direct finish of "W...
Near the left side of the wall is this hand/fist crack, which lies 5' left of Poodles Are People Too (5.10b) a nice looking thin crack.
Climb the classic crack straight up, moving slightly left near the top. Rap from anchors 20' right of the finish with two ropes (120' rap) or walk right and rap from anchors atop The Importance Of Being Ernest with one rope (75').
This is a great climb at a wall with many fine crack routes. Everyone should do this climb at least once as it is a good introduction to crack climbing and Josh in general.
Pro to 3"
Sebastian about 10 feet past the crux
Eric cruising White Lightning
BETA PHOTO: "White Lightning".
Photo by Blitzo.
Chris Parks gets started in the initial inset of '...
Jenny Schillinger gets started on 'White Lightning...
Jenny Schillinger on the easier section of the upp...
Susan at the opening moves of White Lightning
BETA PHOTO: Anne mid way up on White lightning
BETA PHOTO: John high up on white lightning. Working through ...
Gigi deciphering the first crux on white lightning...
Me standing in front of White Lightning
The business is all at the beginning on White Ligh...
just past the crux... felt hard, though this was t...
|Comments on White Lightning
|By Rob "rk" Kalinowski|
Jul 9, 2002
Great Route, must do for the grade! I thought the crux was near the start,about 10-15 ft up, when you have to enter the crack past the little slabby part.Just throw in some pro, and go! The variation to the left near the top is veryfun (6). Enjoy!
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 15, 2003
The route was pretty good, but I've done better climbs at the grade.
You need two ropes to rapp off of the anchors just right of this, but you can walk well to the North out under a bridge and to a point of rock and find a set of bolt-anchors that allows for one rap on a single 50M rope.
Oct 1, 2003
The crux is a few moves after the start and the crack takes pro very well. The climb eases after that until you reach the last 20' where you can choose a 5.7 finish to the left or a 5.9 finish slightly to the right. You are at a soolid stance to place pro before you start either finish. However, the 5.9 finish involves a short sequence of 5.9 moves, so be strong enough to stop and place gear or power through the section w/o falling. The rock below you here is low angled. The 5.7 finish involves a hand crack.
|By Steven Powers|
Oct 2, 2003
its good, but not that good
|By Woody Stark|
Feb 21, 2004
I've led it many times and always felt it was an eight.
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 6, 2004
If this route were anywhere else besides Joshua Tree, say for example Colorado, more people would agree on it being a three star line. If I were on a desert island and could have only one climb, would this be the one I'd take with me? No. But, thinking of all the other areas where I've climbed I'm going to call this spade a spade: three stars.
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 27, 2004
up top taking a right instead of a left, a little pulling and then an 5.8/9. The left side, 5.7 fits. Whatever...
|By Infernal Doom Fanatic|
Oct 1, 2004
Hell yeah! Classic beyond words, believe the hype. Great straight forward jamming crack with excellent gear placements throughout the pitch, nice upper moves with excellent exposure. Simply and awesome climb anywhere.Don't forget to tape your hands or risk the cheese grater.
|By Joseph Lee|
Oct 10, 2004
Good route. There are rap anchors off to the right. You can rap with one 60 meter rope but YOU NEED TO DO SOME DOWNCLIMBING. Do not rappel off the ends of your rope.
|By Scott Edlin|
From: boulder, co
Apr 12, 2006
this route was the climax of my jtree trip. beautiful line, bomber jams, excellent pro, long, and sustained qualities all combined to make this more fun to me than bastille crack in eldorado canyon. if you liked double dogleg and thought it was a little easy, step up to this.
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Apr 12, 2006
This a 3 out of 5 star route, that is easily accessed, accepts copious amounts of pro and lays at the lower end of the 5-scale. Highly recommended for the novice leader, or someone looking for a casual rope length climb.
From: Oakland CA
Mar 30, 2007
hate to uprate a classic, but this is one of the more physical 5.7s you'll ever do! the crux is short, but takes some power. If double cross is .7+, this is an .8. Fun climb, but Overseer is a better warmup than this thing!
|By Russ Walling|
Aug 26, 2007
From the rap anchors described, a 70m will get you all the way back down to the deck, or real close to it.
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 26, 2009
Great line! The bottom crux is awkward and probably will be tough for begining leaders
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 10, 2010
First climbed this almost 3 years ago; still somewhat physical moves on the first third despite my much increased teckneek now (ahem). Still had a foot slip off during the crux move but pulled right through (don't remember how, it's a blur you know).
The 5.9 exit variation is thin and steep, so make sure to bring some small nuts and super small cams. Beware of Z-clipping here if you put a couple pieces close together: this happened to me for the first time (evah!) right in the middle of this section. Hence I found myself hanging off the bomber jug with no feet just below the finish, yarding up an arm of slack below my pieces to fix my error, burning more gas than necessary in my out-of-shape tank.
Mar 4, 2010
A great route for anyone who wants to go passive keep it real.
|By T.J. Esposito|
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 8, 2011
Wasn't a bad climb but in a number of sections the feet are a little slippery from so many people climbing this route.
Jun 27, 2011
As of 6/25/11 there is a hive of very aggressive (africanized?) bees 15-20 feet back from the top of the climb. When I topped out and saw them, I set a directional and belayed from in front of the big boulder, figuring it would offer sufficient protection. After a few minutes of belaying, they found me and started swarming. I did my best not to provoke them....that is, until the first sting. After that, I unleashed a furry of obscenities and swinging rope. Unfortunately, my highly tactical defenses were ineffective and I got stung twice more. After continuous cries of "are you ok" and "up rope" my partner finally topped out. The bees left her alone, so maybe they only like dark skin?? A couple of them were agro enough to follow me all the way down the rap back to the base....where they met sweet death.
|By Brandt Allen|
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 1, 2011
They must be back again from last summer. I was stung four times at the rap anchor while helping with some bolt maintenence. The bites itched more than hurt, but it was still scary!
|By Zachary Wilson|
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 25, 2011
Love this route, no matter what anyone else says. Straight-ahead crack climb, good pro, and strong for the grade.
|By Chris D|
From: the couch
Jan 3, 2012
Greasy at the crux.
Get pro before starting into the fist crack about twenty feet up to avoid hitting the block that the climb starts off of if you blow it. A #3 Camalot is perfect.
The hardest moves on this route are every bit as hard as the moves on 5.8 cracks in other areas. Whatever. Joshua Tree.
From: Riverside, Ca
Mar 17, 2012
I did dung fu "5.7", the flue "5.8", double cross "5.7+ - 5.8", and hands off "5.8" and I thought this was the hardest one of the bunch with the flue being the easiest. First 15ft was the crux for me and very greasy. We jokingly called it grease lightening after doing the climb.
|By Ryan N|
From: Bay Area
Oct 13, 2012
A sandbag at that grade. Very strenuous moves and fairly long climb. Get it while it's in the afternoon shade. All sorts of gear will work big or small nuts or cams.
Nov 17, 2012
Only had one #3 camalot - wish I had at least two. Walked it up several times in the lower section. There's a hidden rail on the left side of the crack in back that must go up at least half the climb. Heck of a lot easier with that. Really cool climb, but the fact that the whole area is always mobbed takes away some of the experience.
Mar 29, 2013
Easy enough (felt 8+ based on routes in WA) but the crack was hard on the hands, and especially the inside of my left forearm as I was laying back on the crack on the inside of the left side of the crack. 10ft up there is a tough part that you have to push through to get onto the main crack. I was asking for a tight belay as the rock is super rough, and the idea of taking a fall sounded - unpleasant.
Ed did a great job leading it, so I got lots of breaks to clean gear. I was a bit sketched out due to exposure by the end but did well.
It was definitely more fun than nearby Dung Fu.