|336 page views|
Good page? (1 like)
To quote my favorite Mountain Project route description, 'I have not sent this route; however, I have spent a disproportionate amount of time falling off this route... '
Connoisseurs of wine will tell you that there is no best wine in the world. Rather, there are many styles of wine, and within each there is an ultimate expression, the pinnacle of that particular genre. For a given type of rock - limestone, granite, schist - there are a few archetypical styles of route.
For hybrid bouldery/endurance routes on technical limestone, White Flower is such a route.
A few powerful moves set you up for the crux from the 2nd to 3rd bolts, clocking in at an insanely technical V6-ish problem. Expect small holds. Expect pain. Expect nightmarishly insecure feet. Expect to be utterly flummoxed and severely taxed.
After unlocking this section, keep your wits about you for 50 more feet of endurance 5.11+ climbing, comprising several moderate boulder problems separated by decent rests. The top of the route can best be described by the French term "exigent", which translates to some amalgamation of obligatory and draining, especially after the savage start.
The popularity of this route, despite the painfulness of the holds, speaks to its quality. A must-do. The extension over the roof is also a superb route (Jack Sparrow 5.14a).
Area 5, three routes right of Vina Kulafu. Starts with a distinctive mono right above a good pocket. Watch where you put your rope bag, as there is sometimes a colony of fire-ants at the base.
13 bolts plus anchors (chain links). While working the route you can forego the last few bolts and exit early left to the confidence-inspiring ring anchors of Itchy Flutterby. (edit: added two brand-new BD carabiners to the White Flower anchors, Nov 18-2012)
Mackie showing the crowd how it is done.
BETA PHOTO: One way of entering the lower crux on White Flower...