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Routes in Lower Breadloaves - Provo Wall
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Easy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Finer Niner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Forgotten Trails S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Greater Eighter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Humble's Tumble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Nogales T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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over hanging offwidth T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Provo S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Psycho Driller S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Riding on an Incline S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sabbatical T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Something Sporting S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tennish Anyone? T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Triple Roofs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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White Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,756 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on Sep 21, 2009 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
White Flake is a good way to get things going if visiting the Provo Wall. Containing a variety of climbing styles, this route warms up the body and mind while stimulating the senses.
Start climbing in the smooth left-facing dihedral. Using various techniques work your way to the crux which sits about half way up at a bulge. Pass this stricture and gain the routes token feature, a large, hollow, detached flake. Climb this to its end and finish out the remaining fifteen feet in a hand size crack.
A fun route with good gear and a comfortable amount of insecurity.
Start climbing in the smooth left-facing dihedral. Using various techniques work your way to the crux which sits about half way up at a bulge. Pass this stricture and gain the routes token feature, a large, hollow, detached flake. Climb this to its end and finish out the remaining fifteen feet in a hand size crack.
A fun route with good gear and a comfortable amount of insecurity.
Location
White Flake is the most significant left-facing dihedral at the Southeast most end of the Breadloaves Provo Wall. Its easily recognized by its large and long detached white flake about 3/4s of the way up.
Protection
A single rack and slings. Build an anchor at the top in a horizontal overlap or use this to redirect the rope to Five Niner's chains. If building an anchor a #1, #2, and .5 or .75 BD will work nicely. Rap from chains.
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