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White Fandango 

White Fandango 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Trocchi/Nichols/Madara '75
Season: Spring though Fall
Page Views: 737
Submitted By: David Houston on Jul 2, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: White Fandango follows the obvious inside corner t...

Description 

This was the first route I did in CT and I returned to it several times. The dihedral is steep and pumpy and the pro is decent but strenuous to place. Stout for its grade. Stem and jam up the steep dihedral which gets easier above as the angle eases.


Location 

White Fandango is one of the left-most routes on the crag. It is the obvious steep dihedral just left of the nasty looking Phantasmagoria roof.


Protection 

Standard rack of small wires through med cams.



Comments on White Fandango Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jim O'Brien
From: Branford, CT
Apr 28, 2008

The block at the top of the crux dihedrial is very loose- DON'T GRAB IT!

By Joel A
Jul 31, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The block at the top of the crux is fine now. Not sure how it was before, but I weighted it with my 190 lbs. 3 times and it didn't budge.

By steverett
From: West Hartford, CT
Oct 24, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Block on top of the dihedral is still loose but hasn't moved in 4 years, apparently.

By thebmags
Jun 6, 2013

Agreed with last 2 people, the block has been solid for the last couple of times I climbed it, weigh around 180lbs

By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Jun 7, 2013

Why not trundle it when the crag is empty sometime?

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Jun 10, 2013

I pulled on it a few years back, its in there pretty good. I did put a giant skull&crossbones on it with chalk just to scare people away from gangbanging it on TR

By CTdave
From: Wallingford, CT
Aug 22, 2013

the block is solid at the top of the dihedral. I hung on it with both arms after testing it with a couple pushes and pulls.