White Devil  5.12d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Neil Gresham, 11/2005 Submitted By:  Fred Vanden Bergh on Nov 14, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Now that is how you use your head

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Description 

The best route of its grade at the crag? Yangshuo? Certainly a contender, White Devil boasts great, super-fun climbing from bottom to top. Ramps up to speed early with a tough, delicate crux near the bottom, climbs to a tricky few moves at mid-way, then a pumpy ride to a super satisfying (and a bit sharp) thank-god jug. The finish is a fun final 10m of 11b-ish jug hauling -- hard enough to fall off of and spoil a redpoint or onsight if you haven't saved quite enough.

Location 

On the main face of White Mountain, just about right up the center. Its just left of Yangshuo Hotel and right of Gang of Four. Climbs up the starting overhang through a few tricky moves - a spot is a good idea here.

Protection 

Bolts to a 2 bolt fixed anchor.

Photos of White Devil Slideshow

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Approaching the head bar hueco

White Devil (12d) on a cold winter day