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Pierre finishing up White Corner
Great mix of stemming, jamming, and jug pulling. NOTE: The route length includes the approach pitch (whichever you choose) to get to the Corner, which begins about 100' up the wall.
P1: Climb either White Russians Gone Bananas
(11a) or Early Times
(9) to access the corner. 100'
P2: Stem, jam, and pull your way through the corner, eventually exiting to the right below a roof. Belay shortly after moving out of the corner. NOTE: There is a variation, Sword of the Lord, that takes off to the left somewhere up here. It's described in the book, but I haven't done it. 10a, 60'.
P3: Pull a steep roof just above the belay and continue up lower and lower angle terrain. Set a belay when it's convenient. 5.9, 150'.
Locate the very large left-facing corner directly above White Russians Gone Bananas, about 100' up.
Standard Shortoff rack (set of stoppers, doubles from blue TCU-#1 camalot, 1 #2)
From: western NC
Jan 4, 2008
It is much better to do this route by linking the "White Corner" with the first section of "Sword Of The Lord". Climb the corner to the end. Instead of belaying here, do a short traverse out left under the roof past a good #3 camelot and onto "Sword Of The Lord". Climb up to bolt at the first opportunity, then continue up HUGE holds to a good ledge for a nice comfy belay. Sword Of The Lord is a very tame 10a, as is White Corner.
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 10, 2011
Good but short. I definitely recommended the same linkup as Nathan. If you belay below White Corner, you can stretch the rope all the way up to a pine tree and then just scramble off making the entire climb only 2 pitches. Combined with all three of the routes, the overall route is three stars.