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DescriptionThe large, shaded (hint - good location for a warm day), cliff band on the hillside up and left from Baskerville Rock and Hound Rock. The rock is of generally excellent quality and features many classic moderates (Popular Mechanics, Ace of Spades, Jack of Hearts all 5.9) as well as some great harder routes including the classic Red Snapper, 5.11a. The other routes are generally all worth doing as well, several days can be spent on this excellent crag for sure! Getting ThereHike from Trashcan Rock to Baskerville Rock on the existing trail (~10 minutes), and follow the trail left and up to the White Cliffs of Dover (another ~5-10 minutes). Popular Mechanics is towards the left, "bottom" end of the cliffband and is a very very clean off vertical right facing dihedral with a thin crack in it and 3 bigger parallel cracks in the left wall of the book (the right two of which are the route Ace of Spades), while Red Snapper is much higher on the right. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for White Cliffs of Dover:
Ace of Spades 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Popular Mechanics 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Make or Break Flake 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Stone Hinge 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Field and Stream 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 115 feet White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
High Anxiety 5.10c/d Trad, 1 pitch, 130 feet White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Red Tide 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet White Cliffs of Dover - Rig...
Shibumi 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet White Cliffs of Dover - Rig...
Good Housekeeping 5.11a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Conqueror Worm 5.11b TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Quest for Fire 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Soviet Union 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet White Cliffs of Dover - Rig...
High Tension 5.11d Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Featured Route For White Cliffs of Dover
Ace of Spades 5.9 CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Start up Popular Mechanics, the very clean, right facing, off-vertical dihedral that is the centerpiece of the White Cliffs of Dover, and about 1/3 of the way up diverge left into the middle of the 3 parallel cracks that head up the left wall of the dihedral. Excellent steep hand jamming makes this a great route and worth doing even if you've done Popular Mechanics already....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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