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White Cliffs of Dover

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White Cliffs of Dover  


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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Beck on Mar 9, 2003
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The White Cliffs of Dover from AFPA Rock, Joshua T...

Description 

The large, shaded (hint - good location for a warm day), cliff band on the hillside up and left from Baskerville Rock and Hound Rock. The rock is of generally excellent quality and features many classic moderates (Popular Mechanics, Ace of Spades, Jack of Hearts all 5.9) as well as some great harder routes including the classic Red Snapper, 5.11a. The other routes are generally all worth doing as well, several days can be spent on this excellent crag for sure!



The White Cliffs of Dover from AFPA Rock, Joshua Tree NP
The White Cliffs of Dover from AFPA Rock, Joshua Tree NP

Getting There 

Hike from Trashcan Rock to Baskerville Rock on the existing trail (~10 minutes), and follow the trail left and up to the White Cliffs of Dover (another ~5-10 minutes). Popular Mechanics is towards the left, "bottom" end of the cliffband and is a very very clean off vertical right facing dihedral with a thin crack in it and 3 bigger parallel cracks in the left wall of the book (the right two of which are the route Ace of Spades), while Red Snapper is much higher on the right.


Climbing Season



Weather station 9.0 miles from here

26 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',6],['5.10',9],['5.11',7],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for White Cliffs of Dover:
Popular Mechanics   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Ace of Spades   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Make or Break Flake   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Stone Hinge   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Field and Stream   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Good Housekeeping   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Browse More Classics in White Cliffs of Dover

Featured Route For White Cliffs of Dover
Mike Holley cruising the double cracks up high. (Anchors are up and left)

Ace of Spades 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : White Cliffs of Dover - Lef...
Start up Popular Mechanics, the very clean, right facing, off-vertical dihedral that is the centerpiece of the White Cliffs of Dover, and about 1/3 of the way up diverge left into the middle of the 3 parallel cracks that head up the left wall of the dihedral. Excellent steep hand jamming makes this a great route and worth doing even if you've done Popular Mechanics already....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of White Cliffs of Dover Slideshow Add Photo
Geoff Kinsely approaching the crux on Popular Mechanics.
Geoff Kinsely approaching the crux on Popular Mech...
a view of the popular mechanics area
a view of the popular mechanics area
White Cliffs of Dover as seen from Trashcan Rock
BETA PHOTO: White Cliffs of Dover as seen from Trashcan Rock
The White Cliffs of Dover formation can be seen in the background.  Stay low in the flat areas until directly below the routes.
BETA PHOTO: The White Cliffs of Dover formation can be seen in...
Mojave Asters near the White Cliffs of Dover, Joshua Tree NP
Mojave Asters near the White Cliffs of Dover, Josh...
Popular Mechanics (5.9), Joshua Tree NP
Popular Mechanics (5.9), Joshua Tree NP

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