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White Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ain't Misbehavin' 
Big Dihedral 
Blitz Girls 
Czech Cashing 
Dirty Blonde 
Easy Redhead 
Exfoliator, The 
Funky Gunky 
Hard Monkey 
Little Di 
Overhangutang 
Parallel Universe 
Rufies 
Water Groove 
Zebra 

White Cliff 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 9,500'
Lat, Long: 39.5679, -106.1227 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 13,027
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Rob Griz on Aug 25, 2010
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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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White Cliff updated topo.

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Description 

White Cliff is a small, southeast-facing crag that receives sun most of the day until about 2-3 hours before sunset. It is mixed in among other slabs along the north side of I-70. It has quality slab/face/roof climbing on a fine mix of gneiss with cool hornblende dikes. There are excellent holds, and depending on the route, few features for gear. The rock continues to exfoliate, mainly little chips but be aware of larger blocks and their stability. Sport and trad routes exist side-by-side. It is great for a quick set of laps after work and close to other areas including Mt. Royal and the Diamond Wall in Officer's Gulch. The White Cliffs have been climbed long before I got here, a story told by the first High Country Crags guidebook and the old Star drive bolts that once dotted the face. The area has seen a resurgence of interest and a handful of exciting new lines worth a lap. Enjoy the modern gear and the fun they afford. A big thanks to Brian Pappas and Elias Martos for their help and support.


Getting There 

From the Frisco #201 exit, drive west for approximately 1 mile on I-70, passing a pair of yellow "Left Curve" road signs. When the shoulder opens up and sloping grass area appears, pull off down along the aspens. You will find a tall cairn and beautiful handmade sign marking the steep approach trail that dips through the trees and heads up to the apron of White Cliff. Follow the trail left to reach the West wall routes, right to reach the East Wall. The approach time is ~5-10 minutes.


L->R: 

West Wall:

A? Left Line, 5, 1p, TR.
B. Ain't Misbehavin', 8+, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Hard Monkey, 9, 1p, 100', bolts.
D. Parallel Universe, 9, 1p, 100', bolts.
E. Water Groove, 7 R, 1p, 100', gear.
F. Little Di, 7+ PG-13, 1p, 110', gear. 2 starts.
G. Czech Cashing, 11+, 1p, 100', bolts.
H. Funky Gunky, 9, 1p, 100', bolts.
I. Big Dihedral, 7, 1p, 100', gear.
J. Overhangutang, 10, 1p, 75', bolts.
K. The Exfoliator, 11- PG-13, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.

5th class toe/apron

East Wall:

L1. Rufies, 8-, 1p, 105', bolts.
L2. Blitz Girls, 8, 1p, 105', bolts & gear.
M. Zebra, 7+, 1p, 100', bolts.
N. Easy Redhead, 6, 1p, 55', bolts.
O. Dirty Blonde, 8-, 2p, 140', bolts.
P. 6, 1p, 55', TR.
Q. 9.


15 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',4],['5.9',3],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for White Cliff:
Easy Redhead   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Big Dihedral   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Water Groove   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Rufies   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Little Di   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Dirty Blonde   5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 140'   
Zebra   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Ain't Misbehavin'   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Blitz Girls   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Hard Monkey   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Parallel Universe   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Funky Gunky   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Overhangutang   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
The Exfoliator   5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Classics in White Cliff

Featured Route For White Cliff
Logan on Dirty Blonde.

Dirty Blonde 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c  CO : 10 Mile Canyon : White Cliff
Dirty Blonde is the right-most route on the East Wall of White Cliff, just left of a chimney/gash. Begin at a slabby 'toe' on unprotected 5.6 slab to a ledge just below a horneblende roof at the base of the Ramp. Follow 4 bolts to a ledge anchor and then 3 more to the top where 2 double ring anchors await. You could make one, one-rope rap (knot yer ends!) to just below the horneblende roof and downclimb-traverse climber's right into the chimney/gash and carefully continue to downclimb or (bet...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of White Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Handmade sign marking the White Cliff approach trail. About 20 yards directly off the shoulder of I-70 W.
BETA PHOTO: Handmade sign marking the White Cliff approach tra...
White Cliff, 1st topo.
BETA PHOTO: White Cliff, 1st topo.
Janice enjoying the day at White Cliff.
Janice enjoying the day at White Cliff.
Exploring a bit right of the bolts of the TRs.
Exploring a bit right of the bolts of the TRs.
Here is an overview of the cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Here is an overview of the cliff.
Comments on White Cliff Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brian Pappas
From: silverthorne CO
Oct 2, 2010

Great climbs, Rob. Thanks for all the hard work putting up these routes.

By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Jun 14, 2011

Sweet crag. Quality rock, routes, and excellent work by Griz.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jun 14, 2011

This is a terrific diamond in the rough. It has very rock which varies from rock reminiscent of Tuolomne, to the Gunks, Red Slab of Clear Creek Canyon, to Combat Rock granite. There is a good deal of variety in a small area from slab to overhangs. Likely due to its location, it is subject to exfoliation as you might suspect. It is definitely worth a stop if you are in the area. Thanks, Rob!

By Will Sharp
From: Breck, CO
Jul 8, 2011

White Cliff is a great place here in Summit County. Great variety of sport lines. Thank you to Rob and Brian for all your work in putting these up! The black and white drawing that Rob has posted is amazingly accurate and easy to follow. Happy Climbing!

By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Aug 30, 2011

Huge thanks to Brian for his handbuilt "Stairway to Heaven". Forget about buying a Stairmaster to workout, just take a stroll up White Cliff. Thanks to Will, Dave and Leo for the great comments, I think we have a pretty classy crag on our hands. Climb on!

By B Soderberg
From: Dillon, CO
Jul 28, 2012

I don't think any of the routes are actually close to 100'. We did most of the routes this weekend, and a 60m rope was fine for everything on the west wall.

By Rob Griz
From: Frisco
Aug 6, 2012

When doing 'most' of the routes, a 60 m rope 'may' be fine. If doing ALL the routes, a 70m is helpful. Many climbing accidents happen when a climber drops a leader on the lower due to a short rope. Seems like we've already had an accident at the crag, hate to see another. Coming from the guy that bolted all the routes, you will definitely need a 70m for the East wall, the "other half" of the climbing at White Cliff. Cheers!

By Matt W.
From: Edmond, OK
Aug 28, 2013

Are there chain top anchors on all routes at White Cliff?