White and Young  5.5 R

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Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  Bradley White, Craig Young, 2003 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  bradley white on Jun 23, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The orange line is it.

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Description 

I led up with no protection in the corner (5-3) on the left side of the slabs very close to the Black Dike and entered the arch moving to the left doing some tricky (5-5) moves at the top of the arch and then a run out onto easier (5-4) climbing across the slab moving right into the cubbyhole like place with a five foot ceiling above it to belay. This is where a rappel station-belay is now set up with pins. From under this ceiling I led up right underneath the ceiling and up around it to these incredibly big stacked and cracked solid sections of rock to get into a large long vertical crack system. I went up easily (5-4) the crack 30 ft and at its end moved horizontally right to intersect with Shadey Grove. I contrived a belay, belayed Craig up and we finished up Shadey Grove’s 2nd pitch. Long run outs on solid rock.

Location 

Close to the Black Dike is a left facing corner. Start here.

Protection 

inadequate fixed pins on first pitch. Fixed belay-rappel pins. Minimal trad. rack. Nothing large needed.

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BETA PHOTO: This will help some in knowing how the route goes ...