Whiskey Gala  5.9 X

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Type:  Trad FA:  C Ruckgaber & M Brooks, 1980 Submitted By:  Tony B on Jul 15, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

According to Rossiter's book, this is the "very flared, obtuse dihedral 20' right of Star Wars."

I presume I found this correctly, and it is also just to the right of Double Cracks, and can be found by referenceing that climb and looking for a route by my description.

This shallow leaning, obtuse "dihedral" sports one of the most flared shallow cracks I've ever seriously tried to put gear in. I consider myself fairly clever with gear, but still ended up climbing this pitch without gear, even after using my nut-tool to clean a few chunks of dirt and moss out of the crack. The sloping holds do not inspire confidence in the stances that you'd be fiddling in gear from anyway.

This is not a good route, in fact my partner declined the opportunity to follow it.

Downclimb Double Cracks to reach the ledge again, or continue upward on a more worthy route.

Protection 

Bad thin pro, presuming I found this route correctly.