All Locations > California > Southern-Wester… > Hwy 41: Fresno… > Fresno Dome (Wa… > Fresno Dome > e. "South" Face

Whiskey Bill

Name: Whiskey Bill
Rating: 3.0

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13

Routes in e. "South" Face

L › R R › L A › Z

	Buggery On The High Seas S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Chimney Sweep TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Coronary Bypass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	East Splitter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Easy Wind T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	EZX T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Green Sponge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	High and Mighty S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Independence Woof S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Iron in The Sky S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Jolly Hockey Sticks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Mule Train T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Mungercling TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Petey the Underdog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Poking Papa Bear T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Second Honeymoon S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	South Pillar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Southwest Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown 4 Bolt Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Unknown Old School Route S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Whiskey Bill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA:	Mike Arechiga and Brad Watson 1997
Page Views:	5,686 total · 35/month
Shared By:	J. Albers on Nov 1, 2010 · Updates
Admins:	Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

27 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

Fantastic five pitch face climb up the south face. Climb a mix of chickenheads, friction, and crack for five nice pitches with great belay stances.

Most of the climbing is 5.6 or easier, but there are several short sections of 5.7. There are many sections (including leaving belays) where you need to climb 25-30 feet between gear; however, nearly all of the runout climbing is on positive holds. The 5.7 friction sections are all near a bolt.

Pitch one: Locate and climb up 15 feet to the first bolt. Continue past 4 more bolts to the first anchor. (5.7; 95 feet).

Pitch two: A fantastic pitch up a sea of chickenheads. Climb featured rock up 25 feet to the first bolt; this bolt is located in a big scoop and is impossible to see until you are 15 feet up from the belay (I marked the first bolt on one of the photos posted below). Continue up another 15-20 feet and locate a second bolt. Pull an easy bulge and look up at 55-60 feet of fantastic chickenhead featured rock. Weave your way upwards using slung heads and the occasional nut placement for protection. Finish at a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. Outstanding rock. (5.6; 100 feet).

Pitch three: Either climb 5 feet up and left off the belay and sling a chickenhead and then proceed back up and right to the first bolt or alternatively, just climb 30 feet directly up and right to the first bolt. Continue wandering upwards keeping your eye open for gear placements, and eventually passing two more bolts. Climb 5.7 friction past the third bolt to a two bolt anchor (two fat Metolius rap hangers) (5.7; 100 feet).

Pitch 4: Step off the belay and climb up to a bolt. Next climb up right to a left facing corner. Climb out onto the face just right of the corner and follow a handcrack (gear) to a stance and a second bolt. Friction up past the second bolt to a two bolt anchor (5.6-7; 100 feet).

Pitch 5: Climb up and left to small right facing flake/corner. Follow the flake upwards to a two bolt anchor 80 feet up. The flake is intermittent and opens up to take small gear every 10-15 feet. Continue up to the summit and build a gear anchor or sling large blocks (5.6; 130 feet).

Location

Follow the main trail from the parking area until you are almost to the backside of the dome. At this point, start descending around the east face. You will pass Zipa-De-Do-Da Buttress and the Panorama Wall (there are one pitch bolted routes on these two walls) and eventually you will arrive below the first section of the dome with multi pitch routes; Looking Glass etc. are here. Continue onwards until you arrive at the South Face; Blitzo's photo may be helpful locating the face. The South Pillar should be pretty obvious because you have to walk around it to get to the West Face routes. Just before the South Pillar, there is a somewhat major break in the cliff line. Just before this weakness is a nice, long section of rock. Whiskey Bill starts at the lowermost toe of this section. Make sure you are starting at the lowermost part of the toe of the wall because there is one additional bolted route to the left of Whiskey Bill before the break in the cliff and the South Pillar. Locate the first bolt about 15 feet off the ground (see beta photo).

Protection

Mixed bolts and gear. All anchors but the final summit anchor have two good bolts. Carry skinny long slings for slinging chicken heads and a single rack from #2-5 Wallnut equivalent and #2 Camalot down to micro cams; perhaps doubles on the micro cams depending on your comfort level on the last pitch.