Whiskey a Go-Go 5.13a
| 6,669 page views Good page? (2 likes)  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a [details] |
| FA: | Dave Groth |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Aug 15, 2004 |
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C. Treiber looking strong on Whiskey (photo G. For...
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Description Whiskey a Go Go is the left most climb on the Y-Crack wall, just left of the saddle between the wall and the spire. The climb follows discontinuous cracks up the steep face. The bottom of the face is heavily featured and offers 5.10ish climbing up to the second bolt. The features eventually run out and the climber is forced into exceedingly thin and dynamic moves to link the widely spaced cracks. Once past the crux, some welcome pockets will be encountered. However, they offer little reprieve since the pump-meter certainly will be redlining. A classic top out deposits the climber on a ledge with anchors. All in all: 50 feet of climbing, increasingly strenuous moves with no rests on perfect, beautiful sandstone. I call it the best hard route in Wisconsin.
Protection Bolts. Whiskey was originally led on dicey natural protection, but has since been retro-bolted for the benefit of all.
This is me sending Whiskey. You can tell by the sm...
| The crux of Whiskey, on a humid day in June. Photo...
| The crux clip. It's all about the thumb. Photo by ...
| Mid-route on Whiskey
| Climber on Whiskey.
| Route from the bottom
| Power moves above the crux. Photo: Nate Erickson.
| Brushing and thinking...
| Josh Knapp getting bionic on Whiskey a Go-Go.
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| Comments on Whiskey a Go-Go |
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By Scott Hahn May 23, 2006
| Hands down one of the best routes I have ever done. |
By Brian Runnells Feb 8, 2007 rating: 5.13a
| Don't remember seeing any ticks there at the beginning of October. As for the route, one of the best ever! .12d at the lake ;) |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Mar 2, 2007
| 12d at the Lake? If it was at the Lake, it would be vertical, painfully thin, and neglected (ala Phlogiston). Good thing it's not at the Lake. I think Whiskey would rank as a classic at the grade at any area in the U.S. and is much better than routes of the same grade in places like Rifle, Wild Iris, etc. |
By Brian Runnells Mar 19, 2007 rating: 5.13a
| I agree Jay, didn't mean to be overly flip about the grade. It truly is one of the best routes anywhere, especially at 13a and of course especially being in WI. There probably isn't a comparable route at the Wild Iris, that is for sure. Phlogiston is a pretty apt comparison for the DL comparison to Whiskey...unleadable...contrived... |
By TravisMelin From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI May 5, 2008 rating: 5.13a
| Too bad that no matter how you shoot pics of this route they just never come out looking very inspiring |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 5, 2008
| Are you dissin my photos Travis? |
By TravisMelin From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI May 5, 2008 rating: 5.13a
| Haha! noo nothing like that. The photos just dont do the route justice. Ive got a bunch of pics on it myself from years ago, and I was there yesterday taking some too. But no matter how you shoot, the light is always goofy, as is the angle... |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 5, 2008
| Good. I know what you mean about the lighting. It's all of those pesky trees near there. Still, I'm sure we'd all love to see your photos Travis. |
By Will S From: Joshua Tree Apr 28, 2009
| "Whiskey was originally led on dicey natural protection, but has since been retro-bolted for the benefit of all. " Lame. |
By SteveSchultz Apr 28, 2009
| Will, it was retro fitted by the FA'ist, if i'm remembering correctly, because he wanted more people to get on it and thought it'd be a waste otherwise. Calm down. |
By Jonathan Williams From: Palo Alto, CA Apr 28, 2009 rating: 5.13a
| You are welcome to skip the bolts if you want. |
By TravisMelin From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI Apr 28, 2009 rating: 5.13a
| Classic case of non-resident passing judgement on a route they have never done. You really gotta understand the history, type of rock , etc before you can start making comments like this. |
By Remo From: Madison, WI Apr 29, 2009
| Will, this line was originally lead with two bolts and natural pro. As Steve said, it was retro bolted so more would get on it. Dave was a hard man and lead a lot of scary shit (props Dave), but I would never lead this thing without the bolts. |
By TravisMelin From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI May 23, 2010 rating: 5.13a
| 2005ish after falling from the last two crimps 4 times in a row... YES!
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By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Aug 16, 2010
| has anyone else led this in the style of mr. groth (2 bolts, the rest gear)? and which two bolts did he use? the upper bolts, i assume, correct? i want to redpoint it in that style this fall. |
By eric zschiesche Oct 14, 2010
| Just to get in the groove of being somewhat of a whistle pig,.. back in the early/mid 1990's I was up at Necedah with Barney Schaeffer and the late Josh Hanes. Barney was working on the redpoint,.. to get his psyche on,.. I ran 6 laps on lead that afternoon. Beautiful climb, well worth the arc of movement. |
By nicros fivten Feb 14, 2011
| Is this thing dry? Anyone know if it is climbable now? |
By JJ Schlick Administrator From: Flagstaff, AZ May 27, 2011
| I was sixteen at the time, and had a proud year or so of climbing experience. Mostly self taught, I had survived many a mistake, before Dave Groth got a hold of me... It was a muggy day, and bugs were thick. Dave and I met Thomas Ramier at the crag early. The objective, maybe my first climbing "objective" ever, was to retro bolt Whiskey a Go-Go. Well, it was Dave's objective and he brought me along for the ride. That day Whiskey went from having a pin and two bolts with a rating of 5.12c R, to the more modern incarnation we enjoy now. Looking back that was a very pivotal moment in my young life. For 20 years now I have been chasing one new route to the next and have cherished every adventure that the obsession has brought my way. Here's to a classic pitch as it moves into its third decade of kicking ass! |
By Trad Nanny Nov 17, 2011
| For the record I believe Pete Vinitov lead this on all gear before Burr and himself came to DL for the Climbing Mag photo shoot. |
By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Nov 17, 2011
| whiskey on gear. baller! |
By Trad Nanny Nov 19, 2011
| And to answer your question about the bolts Randy, there are two old SMC hangers among newer bolts, so I assume those are the originals. Bolts #3 and #5 of 6 total. But, I think the gear is pretty reasonable to protect all the way with a little "R" and since Peter upped the ante I think any bolts are now off-limits for a true gear ascent. |
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