With a variety of crack sizes, excellent and easy to place protection and plenty of sun, Whisker Biscuit is a great introduction to Woodfords climbing. Starting above a nice belay clearing climb up to a small ledge and cruise up a fun thin-hands crack that turns briefly to fingers and leads to a prominent roof. Trend right under the roof into a hand crack that splits a bulge (first crux). Pull the bulge and continue up an ever-widening, leaning crack. Stay with the crack as it necks down to tips avoiding the ugly wide crack to the right. Crank a tenuous lieback (second crux), move up 10 more feet and either
A: dart left to a two bolt anchor/rap station above the Arrowhead or
B: continue straight up on 3rd class for about 30 ft. to a two bolt anchor that is located above the east-facing Walking Jack (5.10+) and lower down that climb. This may require a 70 meter rope.
This route is located 15' right of Arrowhead's "stalactite". As described above, there are two options for descent, both involving bolted rap anchors.
From 3/8" to 3". Doubles of 2"-3". 3/8" cams protect the second crux so some may want doubles of those, also.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 19, 2010
Doesn't look like much from the ground but actually offers fairly excellent climbing.
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Nov 24, 2013
Amazing hand jams with a strong move around a roof. There are two fixed camalots on this thing a #2 that you can't clip at the roof and the #3 mid way up the hand crack.