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> Holcomb Valley…
> Central Pinnacles
> Motherlode Rock
> Motherlode Rock - N Face
Whiptail
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.5 from 136
votes
Routes in Motherlode Rock - North Face
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Blast Hole, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Boom Sauce S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fun Police S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grizzly Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Helmet Jammer T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Nitroglycerine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Powder Keg S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Power Keg S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Short Fuse S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smackdown S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whiptail S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Chris Miller, Nathan Mitts & Pete Paredes, July 2001 |
| Page Views: | 4,554 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 8, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
The right side of Motherlode Rock's north face is home to this fine route up the striking northwest arete, which from the west looks like the head of a giant lizard.
Start in a shallow right-facing corner around and right from Smackdown and climb up and slightly left to a stance atop a pillar. Above the pillar the climb goes slightly right to gain the arete proper which goes slabby after a few moves and leads to the base of a short headwall. The next moves are the crux and involve moving off a good left hand in a shallow corner as your right hand pinches the arete to gain a horizontal (the Lizard's mouth) and then the anchors (these last moves are somewhat reachy).
Good exposure, enjoyable movement and quality rock make this a route to seek out on this portion of Motherlode Rock.
Start in a shallow right-facing corner around and right from Smackdown and climb up and slightly left to a stance atop a pillar. Above the pillar the climb goes slightly right to gain the arete proper which goes slabby after a few moves and leads to the base of a short headwall. The next moves are the crux and involve moving off a good left hand in a shallow corner as your right hand pinches the arete to gain a horizontal (the Lizard's mouth) and then the anchors (these last moves are somewhat reachy).
Good exposure, enjoyable movement and quality rock make this a route to seek out on this portion of Motherlode Rock.
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