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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aimee's Jugs S 
Back to the Known S 
Bender S 
Blaze Got a New Job S 
Blimey S 
Bongo T,S,TR 
Charlotte Corner T 
Ching, Chang, Chong S 
Cowboy in the Dirt T,S,TR 
Crescent Corner T 
Don Miron S 
Flounder S 
Gimme a Clown S 
Hat Change S 
Holy Mackerel 5.8 T 
How Could Hell Be Any Worse? S 
Jason and the Arguenots S 
Java T 
Jay's Corner T 
Johnny Bravo S 
Jowiki S 
Latch Key Kids S 
Logos S 
Masuko S 
Mojo Jojo Crack T 
Nonameyet S 
Pat-Agonia S 
Pondless S 
Straight Outta Lockmont S 
Tacos Pescados S 
Unholy Mackerel T,TR 
Unknown Rudaw route  S 
Unnamed crack T 
Wafer S 
Waverly S 
Wendy's Jugs S 
Whinerlamer S 


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Location: 38.2338, -80.8552 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,006
Administrators: Ladd Raine, Chris Whisenhunt, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Aug 18, 2007






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A low-water climbing area (oct-april)

Deep-water soloing abounds from 5.5 to 5.12+

Many hangers missing, and nasty slipery rock can be encountered.

A great swimming spot during the summer, the hike isn't more than 5 min.

Don't park here late, unless you want to sacrifice your car to some locals.

Getting There 

Take Whippoorwill road follow paved road almost to the end, take a left and park then follow the dirt road until you reach a fork (bonfire pit) take a left and go down into the cliff breakdown to reach the start for many climbs.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.5 miles from here

37 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',22],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Whippoorwill:
Aimee's Jugs   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Wendy's Jugs   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 40'   
Bongo   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Cowboy in the Dirt   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Holy Mackerel 5.8   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Gimme a Clown   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Whinerlamer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Straight Outta Lockmont   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 70'   
Ching, Chang, Chong   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 40'   
Latch Key Kids   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Unholy Mackerel   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 50'   
Hat Change   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 70'   
Flounder   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 50'   
Masuko   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Nonameyet   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Blaze Got a New Job   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Pat-Agonia   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Don Miron   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Bender   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Tacos Pescados   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Whippoorwill

Featured Route For Whippoorwill
In all it's glory.

Masuko 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Whippoorwill
This is a very high quality route. It may be quite challenging if 5.11a is your limit. The first bolt is quite high (20 feet), consider stick clipping it. Start by climbing straight up passing the first bolt to reach the overhang. Pass the overhang on the left side following a flake. Diagonal up and right to reach a nice rest in a horizontal. From here, go straight up on some small and sloping holds aiming for a jug about 5 feet to the right of the next bolt (crux). From here, diag...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Photos of Whippoorwill Slideshow Add Photo
View of whipporwill looking north from Wendy's Jug...
View of whipporwill looking north from Wendy's Jug...
Ladd nearing the top of this short arete.
Ladd nearing the top of this short arete.
View of Whippoorwill from Long Point (across the l...
View of Whippoorwill from Long Point (across the l...
Whippoorwill from the slab above.
Whippoorwill from the slab above.
Facing Masuko.
Facing Masuko.

Comments on Whippoorwill Add Comment
Show which comments
By MojoMonkey
Nov 15, 2011
Anyone familiar with Don Miron? The long reach just above the little roof seemed hard for the grade. Anyone want to privately send me the sequence through there? I was sort of hoping that a foothold had broken off that made it harder - there was a little section of broken rock that may have been a right foot but I have no idea if that was before or after the route was graded. I may not ever make it back out there but am curious how it goes.
By amarius
Oct 21, 2014
Don Minon, Masuko, Nonmeyet, Bongo, Cowboy, Gimme a Clown, Blaze, Mojo are open at Summersville Lake Pool level of 1625ft. Some traditional climbs might be open as well.
Path leading to Amy/Wendy is under water at this level

Edit - fixed typo, thanks!
By ChrisHau
Oct 21, 2014
Amarius, I think you mean 1625 - lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wc/sugns...
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