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 ADVANCED
Southeast Face
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Whippin' Boy 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 650', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doc Bayne, Mark Lassiter, Nick Williams - 1993
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,986
Submitted By: andjoely on Sep 24, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Probably the best route right of mainline. All the pitches are good and it follows a direct line up the good white rock for a ways. It is well protected except perhaps for a few sections of 5.8 but in classic Doc Bayne style you actually have to free climb the harder parts of the route to get up it.

P1: Climb the 5.6 standard variation to the 1st pitch of the OR to the tree.
P2: climb straight up past a fixed pin and a hangerless bolt with a rivet hanger to a left facing corner. Continue climb the corner for a few feet then step right onto the face to climb straight up past 2 bolts to a ledge with a anchor with a bolt backed up by tricams. (5.8+)
p3: Climb above the belay then angle left to cross over dikes. There is good but pretty tricky pro to be had in some of these dikes, with hybrid small cams being useful. Continue past one bolt to a 2 bolt anchor (Note: the Shull-Lambert guide tells you to angle up and right from the belay which is wrong and must be a relic of when people belayed further to the left on the tree ledge) (5.10b)
P4: climb up and left then hand traverse the horizontal weakness out right past bolts. Continue up the face past 2 bolts to a seam to a ledge. belay to the left in a horizontal with medium cams or continue straight up a steep seam to another ledge. The moves on this pitch are never hard but the cummulative pump factor gives it the grade. It is very well protected with clean falls into air. (5.11d)
p5: continue up face past a bolt to a belay at a bolt under a flake (5.8)
p6: continue straight up excellent slab climbing (5.9)

Location 

goes through the white rock above the 1st pitch of the OR 60 feet left of the 25 foot long blocky right facing corner below a roof of new perversions

Protection 

cams to #2, nuts, tricams


Photos of Whippin' Boy Slideshow Add Photo
Scott reaching for the flake with the pin, pitch 2...
Scott reaching for the flake with the pin, pitch 2...
Whippin' Boy topo, Whitesides, NC
Whippin' Boy topo, Whitesides, NC

Comments on Whippin' Boy Add Comment
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By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Mar 14, 2011

P2. Harder down low for sure. Go straight up through lichen covered holds on the face just right of the corner. You can traverse right as well, maybe slightly easier.
P3. Amazing face climbing pitch. Unfolds effortlessly. Small Offset cams useful. Generally trends up and to the left from P2 belay.
P4. JUGS JUGS JUGS. Trend up and left before pulling an ackward mantle onto a small ledge just under the overhang. Rest up and move past two bolts down low protecting the technical crux. Keep moving on big holds and snag the third bolt. Dance right and left following the big holds leading up to the fourth bolt and the seam 10 ft above. No move is specifically hard but this packs one hell of a pump!
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Nov 15, 2011

P2 - Almost 200 feet to the good ledge with bolt. Great belay.
P3 - Awesome face climbing pitch. Decent gear. Yes on offsets - money piece.
P4 - Super Pumpy! Another long pitch if you go all the way to the second ledge. Great belay. Just right of the OR traverse pitch.
P5 - Should be able to see bolt at the flake.
P6 - One 5.9 move and lots of lichen gets you to the top.

Great, safe route!
By Derek DeBruin
Mar 15, 2014

Was on Whippin' Boy today. I too noticed the loose nut on the second bolt of the .11d pitch when I got there, but I totally spaced on a wrench or even using a nut-tool to tighten it. I hand-tightened it on the way by. But that thing could use a turn or two with a wrench for sure.

Unfortunately, we also left a stopper (unintentionally) at the base of P2 in the thin crack on the OR ledge just below the fixed pin. If anyone can get that thing out, please do. I hate fixing gear.