Whippers in Time 5.11c/d
| 280 page views
Good page? (1 like)   |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Todd Bol, Stephen Nance |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | tbol on Jun 27, 2012 |
| |
Add Photo  Printer View
Description This variation had been looked at for some time. Despite interest it had never been bolted.... Well, now it is. Three shiny bolts protect the new and somewhat direct start to 'Wrinkles in Time.' Climb the suprisingly fun, overhanging arete to the second or (better for rope drag) third bolt on 'Wrinkles in Time.'
It is a glorified boulder problem with the added bonus of climbing the rest of 'Wrinkles.' I hope people will enjoy it. For hardmen sportos out there wanting to work on it, I sincerely hope you find it to be fun. However, please keep in mind that it shares chains with the best warm-up in the area and a popular route for people of all abilities.
The grade I suggested may be totally off. That's about what we felt it was after doing it a few times.
Location It is just right of the regular start to 'Wrinkles in Time.' You begin by climbing the first bit of the 'Underworld Traverse' in Rossiter's old book.
Protection 3 QDs, a #1 or 0.75 Camalot for the start, and a few runners for the third or fourth bolt on 'Wrinkles.' A stick-clip would be useful if you lacked the appropriate gear, or clip the first bolt when you come down from 'Wrinkles.'
| Comments on Whippers in Time |
|
By tbol
Jul 5, 2012
| Now that I have been back to repeat this a few times, it seems more like 12a. |
By Stephen Nance
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2012
rating: 5.12a PG13
| No way around it, this thing is 12a. Not a long route, but there are three hard moves in a row with somewhat bad feet. Small, yet positive crimps on an overhanging arete. Moves feel like V4 climbing. Worthy of a try by all!
For those wanting to have an easier time clipping the first bolt, you can either:
a) use a good undercling/pocket/sidepull out right just before the business. Stand up tall with a foot on the break of the crack and clip, or
b) head straight up the arete via a good long sidepull on the face, foot on a big jug clip it then downclimb and continue out right.
A good addition to this wall. |
|
15 more...
RSS Feed
