|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Apr 7, 2006|
|Comments on Whipper||Add Comment|
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By Aaron S
Apr 22, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
This route was surprisingly moderate given how steep and ominous looking it is. The moves through the roof are fun and unique. There are enough good face holds that it can still b climbed if you arenít solid on hand jamming, although it helps.
One thing to watch out for, as I lowered from the top the rope pressed against a couple cams in the roof and shoved them pretty far back in there. I was able to retrieve them with a couple minutes of work but itís something to watch out for. If my blue camalot had gone another 4 inches in it would have been completely out of reach.
If it weren't for the loose rock this climb would be pretty classic.
By Cultivating Mass
Nov 3, 2011
|Pretty mellow. Guidebook 10b but those familiar with the angle might say easier. There are enough face holds (jugs) up there to completely skip the jams, but it's fun climbing either way. As Aaron noted, if you lower off this one, you risk losing your cams-better to belay your second up, having them clean the gear, then if you want to TR it it's no problem. The sling anchor on this one is all bleached out as of 11/11-bring some webbing to replace all the sunburnt garbage up there, especially if you're planning to TR from it.|