Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Sunnyside Crags
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bad Day at Black Rocks 
Cold September Corner 
Gotham City 
Hot August Night 
Magellanic Cloud 
Mercedes 
Meteor 
Mister Freeze's Face 
Mister Masters 
Pit Bull 
Shady Ladies 
Spring Break 
Tarantula 
Tie me Tightly 
Van Allen Belt 
Water Dog 
Whiplash 
Whipper 

Whipper 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown
Season: any
Page Views: 533
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

This route is a good line with a little bit of chunky rock. Climb up to the roof (moderate) through the roof (less moderate) and pull the lip of the roof (moderately difficult, crux) and then continue up the crack to the anchors. The protection is solid, but the crack is not very smooth. I did not tape and I ended up bloody. Tape up!


Location 

This is the left-most route in the sunnyside crags. About 20 meters to the right of the Cold September Corner area, below a good sized roof, and to the right of it's apex, you can see a hands to wide-hands crack splitting the roof and going up above it to a set of webbing anchors. This is the climb.


Protection 

A standard rack of nuts and cams to 3.5"



Comments on Whipper Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron S
Apr 22, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This route was surprisingly moderate given how steep and ominous looking it is. The moves through the roof are fun and unique. There are enough good face holds that it can still b climbed if you arenít solid on hand jamming, although it helps.

One thing to watch out for, as I lowered from the top the rope pressed against a couple cams in the roof and shoved them pretty far back in there. I was able to retrieve them with a couple minutes of work but itís something to watch out for. If my blue camalot had gone another 4 inches in it would have been completely out of reach.

If it weren't for the loose rock this climb would be pretty classic.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Nov 3, 2011

Pretty mellow. Guidebook 10b but those familiar with the angle might say easier. There are enough face holds (jugs) up there to completely skip the jams, but it's fun climbing either way. As Aaron noted, if you lower off this one, you risk losing your cams-better to belay your second up, having them clean the gear, then if you want to TR it it's no problem. The sling anchor on this one is all bleached out as of 11/11-bring some webbing to replace all the sunburnt garbage up there, especially if you're planning to TR from it.