Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Beer Block
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
12-pack Link S 
Buddha's Beer Belly S 
BYOB S 
El Beerto S 
It's Time to Drink Beer S 
Little Kings S 
Tecate Two-Step S 
Texas Whine S 
Thing, The S 
To Beer or Not to Beer S 
Village Cobbler S 
Whipper Wonderland S 

Whipper Wonderland 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 1,138
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Apr 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
last move

Description 

Sequency problem beginning at around the second to last bolt, with a power move through "the wave" at the top, to a large jug just above the left anchor bolt. Clean fall as overhung as the rock is.

Location 

Looking at the west facing side of beer block, the route is all the way over to the right. Not the severly overhung route (which is 5.13), but the one just to the left of that that is only mildly steep until you hit the top of the climb. Climb is #50 in the El Rito online guide.

Protection 

4 bolts to bolt anchors.


Photos of Whipper Wonderland Slideshow Add Photo
James "liberating" yet another bail biner on Whipper Wonderland.
James "liberating" yet another bail biner on Whipp...

Comments on Whipper Wonderland Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Wachter
Feb 26, 2008

Not so hard once you get the crux, but if you don't stick the dynamic move to the top, you're off to whipper wonderland. All air, big air. Don't you dare ask for beta.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 19, 2008
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Judging by wiggle action on that last bolt, it has definitely seen some action! It stopped my repeated falls so it's obviously still good enough.
By lance hadfield
From: tijeras
Jun 15, 2010

FA Lance Hadfield this route was graded 5.11d but it might be because I new were the holds were. is the bolt still good or does it need some love?
By hunter
Aug 9, 2010

Lance,
I don't think the bolt is an immediate danger but it is a spinner and I think repeated falls have chewed up the threads enough it will be very hard to tighten so replacement is probably in order at some point.

James
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 22, 2014

I tried to onsight this, and took the big whip from the crux last move, and bashed up my heel, elbow, and head, thankfully not badly but bad enough to end my day. It seems like maybe I just took a weird fall, but before my next attempt, I'll try to get more specific beta, and I'll wear a helmet. This climb's kind of scary in my (wimpy) opinion.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
May 13, 2014

This climb is scary, George. It ain't that overhung! You're in for a literal whipping if your belayer doesn't give you a soft, but short, catch.