Whip Tide 5.12b
| 6,803 page views Good page? (1 like)  |
| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12 [details] |
| FA: | Squibb, Mallery, Andrew, 1989 |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Oct 4, 2006 |
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Timmy D enjoying an incredible new england summer ...
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Description Whip Tide climbs up the central inside corner of the cliff. However, this corner is guarded by a bouldery overhang at the bottom and a giant roof at the top. The pump crux, topping out, has given many a climber trouble, but grabbing the chains is a definite faux pas. Climb up the ladder to the ledge. Whip Tide is the farthest left route starting off the ledge. Stems and the sneaky use of an undercling allow establishment in the corner. From here, relatively moderate, but spicy stemming leads to the roof. Fear not, as the roof holds are some of the biggest in Rumney. Traverse right across the roof and top out. Originally graded 5.12c, the crux of the route involved a very powerful cross through from a gaston in order to enter the corner. The newer undercling beta may have taken the sting out of the grade.
Protection 13 bolts
Past the bulge crux, Kayte Knower contemplates the...
| Kayte approaching the roof. The chains can be seen...
| Jay Conway just past the crux on Whip Tide, as the...
| kevin whipping on whip tide from the roof...
| kevin starting up the corner
| resting at the half way point
| stemming
| clipping on the roof...
| The air up there.
| Chick from Maine finishing Whip Tide
| Sam playing twister to get through the crux.
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By George Squibb From: Boulder, CO Nov 29, 2006
| It was a long time ago, but I think we originally graded it .12b |
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Nov 29, 2006
| The most recent guidebook has it at 12c, but I would agree with 12b. Technosurfing is at least as hard as Whip Tide, if not harder, and Techno's 12b. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Feb 14, 2007 rating: 5.12b/c
| The victory whip from the top is not to be missed.... I found the whipper to be at least as fun as the climb itself.... To take the whip: 1. don't clip the chains... 2. have your belayer pay out a bit of extra slack... 3. walk the plank... You will hit the wall but not too hard at all...have fun.... |
By Mike Thompson From: Manchester NH Feb 7, 2008
| new project for mike?....i think so!.... take the whiper eh! |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Feb 8, 2008 rating: 5.12b/c
| good proj for you mike... work out the boulder problem start then crush it... |
By Mike Thompson From: Manchester NH Feb 17, 2008
| oh it will be crushed |
By bheller From: SL UT Oct 14, 2010
| Try as I might, I couldn't seem to make that lower crux getting into the corner feel any easier than a legit V5 (12c)... guess I needed someone to show me the sneaky undercling beta. I found this route way harder than Technosurfing. |
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Oct 15, 2010 rating: 5.12b/c
| perhaps ill get some video some day.... till then watch people do it and steal beta... it really does get easier the more you figure it out... |
By Mike Willig Nov 7, 2010
| Watched a guy free solo this today...made it look like 5.6. Impressive as hell. |
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Nov 8, 2010 rating: 5.12b/c
| Timmy Deroehn? Man, I wish he would stop doing that. It is impressive how he has those routes wired, but I would hate to see or hear that he splattered. The odds aren't good if you keep doing that, no matter how good you are. Frankly, it always seems a little odd when people solo with others around. |
By Mike Willig Nov 8, 2010
| I don't think that was his last name...I could be wrong. It was only my partner and I there....so it wasn't crowded...and it was clear that he had no intention of trying to impress anyone. In fact, when his friends showed up, he put on his harness. |
By Hannah W May 20, 2011
| I think another factor in how this climb feels different for different people is that I think the crux favors people with shorter legs - you just fit into the dihedral better (I know, I'm waiting to hear the dissenting voices). I'd never climbed v4 outside when I sent this climb (still haven't sent any v4s as a matter of fact), and although it took a lot of effort to send it, i was able to figure out a good sequence in the end. I think it's far more important in the crux to look at your feet as well, the undercling is key but it won't do any good if you don't put your feet right. before i sent the climb i had it exactly figured out where to put my feet with numerous different foot switches in the short 20 foot crux. you just have to figure out a way to use the opposition forces in the dihedral to your advantage. kayte knower had the best beta for the climb, it really helped me out so if you see her maybe ask her? |
By Mike Willig Jan 12, 2012
| Video of Tim Deroehn Free Soloing RT...
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