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Routes in 3) The Brain
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Brain Storm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Brain Teasers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brain Tweezers S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brain Wave T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Butta S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chunky Monkey S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Climax Control S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hot Flash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Journey to the Center of the Brain T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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M.E.N.S.A. S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Mandrill, The S 5.14a/b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Mono Loco S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Out of Mind T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Picket Fence S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Redacted by Mountainproject S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Super Whiny Bugs S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Travisty, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Whiny Bugs S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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You Want It, You Got It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Gus Glitch |
| Page Views: | 1,417 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Oct 25, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
Description
Whiny Bugs is a thoroughly entertaining route from start to finish. It requires a little more precision and focus than your average NRG 5.12-. Expect a thrashing on this route as you decipher the cryptic beta, but once you have the technical movement figured out it should come easily.
Stick clipping either the first or second bolt is recommended since some of the hardest moves are encountered directly off the deck. Slap up a double sidepull compression feature to get established on the beginning slabby face. The beginning of this route is not friendly to shorties. With the beginning moves behind you, dont let up because there are a couple more difficult moves before you reach a no-hands rest.
Clip the third bolt and then figure out an artsy way to move right out a small roof. The route that diverges left is 14a. A couple long reaches between good holds brings you to the fourth bolt. Get ready for the most insecure section of the route which revolves around two right facing sidepulls and limited footholds. Clip the fifth bolt and move up a somewhat tenuous ramp to clip the sixth bolt and then cruise through several more bolts of easy lichen covered rock.
Whiny Bugs is a tenuous balancing route requiring some really inventive movement. If you like this sort of style you'll have a blast.
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