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Whimsical Dreams 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA: Jimmy Dunn, 1975
Page Views: 10,231
Submitted By: Ben F on Oct 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Dan Dalton climbs Whimsical Dreams.

Description 

Whimsical Dreams is on the Turkey Tail. This route is fantastic and it does not let go of you until you reach the anchors at the ledge. It was a very humbling experience to make it through the 2 5.11- sections and then blow the 5.10 exit roof.

This climb is the first crack on the left side of the wall with all kind of chalk on it. It starts in a small, right-facing corner. Above, you will see a slot through a very small roof. After that, the crack system continues straight upwards into a left-facing corner that leads to a roof. Pull out of this and continue for maybe 15 feet to the anchors. This climb protects very-well. Keep a cool head, don't get to anxious on it, and milk your rests one you find them.

Protection 

Bring stoppers, more stoppers, a set of cams up to a #4 Camalot. Don't worry, you get to dump the 3 and 4 Camalots low. You may want to double on 0#.75 and 1 Camalot sizes. There is an anchor at the top of the climb from which you can rappel using a 60 m rope.


Photos of Whimsical Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
Peterman Whimsically Dreaming. <br /> <br />Photo by D.Mabe
Peterman Whimsically Dreaming.

Photo by D.Mabe
Under the roof.
Under the roof.
Eli milks the tenuous jams on Whimsical Dreams.
Eli milks the tenuous jams on Whimsical Dreams.
Yours truly, mid crux on my redpoint of this fantastic route.
BETA PHOTO: Yours truly, mid crux on my redpoint of this fanta...
BETA PHOTO
Just past the crux
Just past the crux
Having too much fun again
Having too much fun again
John Langston finding good jams thru the roof. Photo by Ben Hobgood
John Langston finding good jams thru the roof. Pho...
Bob Horan on Whimsical Dreams, Turkey Tail.
Bob Horan on Whimsical Dreams, Turkey Tail.
Turning the roof.
Turning the roof.
John Langston walking up Whimsical. Photo by Ben Hobgood.
John Langston walking up Whimsical. Photo by Ben H...

Comments on Whimsical Dreams Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 20, 2014
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Nov 23, 2001

A full-value pitch !
By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Jun 1, 2003

There is a second pitch to this route. Move the belay 20' to the right, to the next left facing corner. Climb the steep arching crack with rp's and small cams or ballnutz to a handcrack 10d. Continue to the top with another 5.10 move to exit the crack system. Descend 4th class to the north and back around past the Turkey Perch.
By Thomas Jensen
Jul 11, 2003

I would rate this as one of the BEST cracks anywhere! So much fun! Don't place a cam at the lip of the last roof! It will catch your rope and lock you down at a most inconvenient spot. (11- ???? Did Jimmy Dunn rate this thing???)
By Peter Holcombe
May 12, 2004

Actually, Jimmy and Brian Teale (who also participated in the F/A) rated it 5.10+......
By TBD
Jul 12, 2004

For me the technical crux was at the first, smaller roof. Several good rests exists, milk them. Bring a couple pieces in the yellow/ red alien size.
By Bosier Parsons
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 29, 2004

The original rating was 5.10+, claiming no moves were harder than this, but obviously very sustained.

Earl Wiggins free-soloed the route.
By Robert Stetler
Jun 20, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I onsighted this route last year. My strategy was simple. I sprayed to my climbing partner that I had onsighted this route a week earlier and Jimmy Dunn was watching so I sprayed to him, too. With all that hype, it's near impossible to fall. After the onsight, I fell every time I attempted it for a year. This is one of the best pitches anywhere, including the valley. If you can't climb this, jug it. You need to get on this climb.
By nolteboy
Oct 9, 2005

Granite cracks don't get much better than this.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Aug 12, 2006

Maybe the locals can add a bit of reality here, but one reason for the original 5.10+ rating may be that there was a small tree at the first crux section (thin twin cracks) which probably made these moves easier (and is the reason the tree is no longer there!!!).

Bruce
By Joseph DeGaetano
From: Fayetteville, WV
May 27, 2008

For me the crux is the mini offwidth roof 2/3 of the way up. I'm curious: Did you use squeeze and jam through it or use the sport weenie method and crimp and pimp through it. Being a East Coast, sport weenie I had to do the latter-no way was I figuring out the squeeze and jamming beta on that one.
By Matt Burns
Oct 6, 2008

I think the odd crux in the middle has to be one of the strangest sequences I've ever done on a climb. I'm still amazed that it worked.

And then I blew it getting into the 5.10 roof above. Full value though. It felt much longer than 90' and not a gimmie at the grade.
By Brett Nelson
Mar 9, 2009

Any info on the route that breaks right 1/3 of the way up Whimsical Dreams and climbs the left-facing dihedral about 8 feet right? There are two pitons in the first roof of this adjacent crack.
By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Mar 9, 2009

@Brett Nelson, the pins moved a bit when I clipped them on rappel to take some photos, I wouldn't trust them to hold a fall.
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Mar 9, 2009

That is the Fender Route (edit: Dekkers Route)...mid 11, thinner and dirtier than Whimsical but still a fun outing.
By slim
Administrator
Mar 9, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Kevin, I had thought it was the Dekker variation (?). A couple friends did it and said it was pretty fun. Looks kind of hairy.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Mar 9, 2009

It's the Dekker route. 5.11a.
By Hanson Smith
From: Boulder, CO
May 20, 2014

I added quicklinks to the two bolts after the second pitch. These bolts had previously had tat and then bail biners on them. I feel that the addition doesn't change the character of the route, it just allows you to rappel the route from the top of the tail. If anyone feels that these quicklinks need to go, post it here and I will remove the quicklinks.