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By Ezekiel Thornton
From Akron, Ohio
Feb 18, 2013
Top of Castleton

I'm looking to get a subscription for a climbing magazine but not sure which would be more geared for me. Or an overall one is > than the other.

I'm more interested in traditional climbing with the goal of climbing big walls. Just bought the book How To Big Wall Climb off of supertopo. I'm interested in reading stories and getting tips.

I know of Rock and Ice and Climb magazines. Are there others I should check out?


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By climber pat
From Las Cruces, NM
Feb 18, 2013

Check out alpinist and gripped.


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By seth0687
From Fort Collins
Feb 18, 2013
Leading the first ice pitch of the NW Gully-Thatchtop

+1 for alpinist.


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By JCM
From Henderson, NV
Feb 18, 2013

Rock & Ice and Alpinist are both doing a good job now; CLimbing has really tanked in quality.

Alpinist is put together with exceptional quality, and if you want to real about big adventures on big snowy mountains, this is the place to go. That said, Alpinist is not the end-all-be-all of climbing journalism; there are some aspects that some may not like. First, it is only a quarterly. Also, I find that the writing is sometimes a bit too overtly artistic, and is often tinged with a fog of nostalgia for some Golden Era. As a member of the modern era of climbing, I sometimes find that reading about old men waxing nostalgic about how much better things were in the 1960s to be a bit tiresome. To each his own, though, and if you have an interest in the history of mountaineering, or in pursuing big-range alpinism yourself, Alpinist is great.

Rock and Ice is more relevant to the modern rock climber, in general. They've been doing a great job lately, with good writing, interesting features, and lots of pictures. Covers the whole range of climbing genres-- from boulders and sport climbs to big walls and alpinism. They also do a ton of destination-features, where one area or even a single route gets an in-depth profile, which I like. This is my favorite of the magazines.

Climbing Magazine has taken a strange turn the last few years. It seems to have found its niche in marketing itself to the complete novice. It seems that much of the content is instructional material, which I find to be an odd thing for a magazine; buy an instructional book if you need that. The magazine itself is quite thin, with not much in terms of quality writing or long-format features.

Lastly, don't forget to read Deadpoint Magazine. It's free, its online, and they've really stepped up the quality lately; it helps that Mike Williams (the main guy behind it) is a well-traveled climber and a great writer.


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By mitchy
From nunya gotdamn business.
Feb 18, 2013

Yeah, you should check out that mag. Barely legal.


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By bearbreeder
Feb 18, 2013

rock and ice is available online ... its likely the "best" mag IMO and "free"

as to which to buy?

none IMO ... spend the money climbing, on courses or on gear

going out and doing it will be worth more than any mag ... and you can read R&I online on the way ;)


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By Ezekiel Thornton
From Akron, Ohio
Feb 18, 2013
Top of Castleton

Thanks for the advice on the mag's.

Gripped's website is so bad I was instantly turned off.

Toss up between Alpinist and Rock & Ice. Maybe I'll look into the app but I also like to have the mag in my hand and not read on a small screen.

As far as not using the money on the mag and instead use it on EXP I totally agree but I'm more limited to vacation time than money. Once it warms up I'll be at Seneca a lot of weekends!


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Feb 19, 2013
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

I'm a big fan of Pmags.. best bang for the buck, super reliable.


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By Dylan Dwyer
From Missouri
Feb 19, 2013
after OS soloing the first flat iron, direct route

i agree with everything said so far. Alpinist and Rock & Ice are the good ones, Climbing looks like a coloring book


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By The Stoned Master
Administrator
From Pennsylvania
Feb 19, 2013
Day Lily.

I'm disappointed in Climbing Magazine. Nothing stimulating and as an experienced enough trad climber the large sections of "how to" (nothing bad but I'm not interested) are a waste.
I know how to place a cam or lower off the ATC guide, etc. Its a magazine directed at new comers for sure (nothing bad but not what I want). I have 1 more year of subscription then its back to rock and ice.

If Icould afford alpinist id buy it more. Worth it but they also have a solid web site.


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By ColinM
From Escondido, CA
Feb 19, 2013
Capitol Peak

If you're an American Alpine Club member, R&I is only $9.95/year and Alpinist is $39.95/year. Climbing magazine is $12.95/yr if you're interested in that one. I just get R&I and think it's worth it for $9.95. There is more in the magazine than their website. Plus as an AAC member you get the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering every year. Plenty of stories in those.


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By Woodchuck ATC
Feb 19, 2013
Rock Wars, RRG, 2008

Alpinist is pricy for just the 4 issues a year.,,but well written for sure. Rock and Ice seems to be the lead now, with larger format and more content. I"ve got scrips to both Climbing and Rock and Ice for several more years paid up, but agree Climbing is slipping alot lately with content and volume too. Thin mag with little to say.


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By todd w
Feb 19, 2013

I always thought Climbing had a lot more substance than R&I.

To me, R&I seems to have a lot of "filler" material (and ad space). Hell, any time you click the link to R&I you get harassed by the same dumb photo of some gangly mutant twisted up under a roof. Who cares, stop bothering me and give me substance.

R&I lost of vote when I bought one of their "photo" issues, which had maybe 8 photos total. Waste.


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By David Sahalie
From on the road again
Feb 19, 2013

If you like steep hiking, buy Alpinist.

If you use your hands to climb, buy the others.


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By Dave Deming
From Grand Junction CO
Feb 19, 2013

Another vote for Alpinist, I newstand it when it comes out. Does have the tendency to get long winded and preachy at times. But, probably the best reading for an experienced climber.


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By Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Feb 19, 2013

todd w wrote:
I always thought Climbing had a lot more substance than R&I. To me, R&I seems to have a lot of "filler" material (and ad space). Hell, any time you click the link to R&I you get harassed by the same dumb photo of some gangly mutant twisted up under a roof. Who cares, stop bothering me and give me substance. R&I lost of vote when I bought one of their "photo" issues, which had maybe 8 photos total. Waste.

Have you picked up Climbing in the last year? Clearly not, as you would see that exactly the opposite is true.


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By john strand
From southern colo
Feb 19, 2013

Mountain project


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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 19, 2013
Are you Chicken, or fishy?

I would say that none are great, right now I think Rock and Ice is better than Climbing, but in the last 10 years I've seen it swing back and forth between the two every few years. Overall best bang for you buck is Rock & Ice, but Alpinist is pretty rad if you care about snow climbing.

I just subscribed to Rock & Ice a few weeks back thanks to a disount through the Access Fund, I think it was $12??? Just make sure you don't buy whichever issue is on the stand right now, they will most likely send you the same copy, which they will extend your subscription by a month if you email them about it.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 19, 2013

I understand that which magazine is clearly a matter of taste, preference, etc. The problem right now is that the content is pretty darn different. Given what you're looking for--content on big wall tips, etc.--Alpinist is not really up your alley. Having said that, however, the quality of the content and writing is so far superior to anything in any other climbing mag that it's not even close.

I've found that Rock & Ice and Climbing, both of which I like flipping thru, are enjoyable quick reads. They have the occasional useful tip but, unless there's an article about an area I've been wanting to visit or similar, they remain about as relevant as People magazine. Good for a quick psych but the buzz is over almost immediately. Alpinist I go back and read again and again.


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By CJC
Feb 19, 2013

rock and ice is a joke. this month they feature a crag in Idaho that consists of 99.9% manufactured routes. I cancelled my subscription immediately. fuckin sellouts.


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By prod.
From Boulder, Co
Feb 19, 2013

Alpinist is great, R&I is better than it used to be, Climbing has gone way downhill.

Just my opinion.

Or just ask questions here, supertopo, and Bigwall, that with the ST book ought to get you up a wall better than the mags.

Prod.


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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 19, 2013
Are you Chicken, or fishy?

CJC wrote:
rock and ice is a joke. this month they feature a crag in Idaho that consists of 99.9% manufactured routes. I cancelled my subscription immediately. fuckin sellouts.


You obviously have not been climbing long if you have never heard of this particular "crag in Idaho", I can also assure anyone that is considering a trip to the City of Rocks that 99% of the routes are NOT manufactured. The only routes that are manufactured are in the 12+/5.13 range. If you read the article you would know that, also you would know that the place is famous world wide for being an amazing place for moderate climbers since most are in the 5.8 to 5.11 range.

I have climbed at a few places known for being manufactured (have you heard of a place called Smith Rock???)and even in those places I rarely saw a drilled pocket, and when I did it was obvious.


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By J Q
Feb 19, 2013
Me again!

As you can tell, the best thing for you is to stick around here and develop an over the top ethical stance on things that before you became a "climber" you never cared about or imagined. In fact, you might get some big britches and denounce things you know nothing about, like this little fella:


CJC wrote:
rock and ice is a joke. this month they feature a crag in Idaho that consists of 99.9% manufactured routes. I cancelled my subscription immediately. fuckin sellouts.



Most of the Alpinist articles that I have read are about alpinism and they are not about trad climbing. Of course, I don't like articles about alpinism because I don't like sharing sleeping bags with my boyfriends and snuggling for body-heat.


Isolation breeds neurosis. It's fun. Get your clique on son.


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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Feb 19, 2013

On second thought, Alpinist had an issue just about El Cap a while back. You still might be able to order a back issue. If they no longer have a hard copy of that issue, they are going to start selling then as pdfs. It's got the history of the Big Stone; lots of first account pieces by some of the first ascentionists, Nose in a day tales by Largo, etc. Really, really good stuff. The only thing that will get you more pysched for the Captain will be standing in El Cap Meadow.


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By Whippin
From Bend, OR
Feb 19, 2013

I'm letting my subscription to Climbing lapse. Tired of the "Top 10 _____" articles with little to no substance. The Alpinist is my favorite by far. Alpinist is to National Geographic as Climbing is to Ranger Rick.


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By CJC
Feb 19, 2013

not the city of rocks asshat. the cave @ riggins. did YOU read the article? no.

lol at the wankers defending chipping

speaks for itself. what else is there to say?


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