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Which boots to buy?
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By EckBecK
From Missoula, MT
Nov 7, 2011

hello all

Right now I am in the market for a new pair of boots. I'm looking for something that handles vertical ice pretty well and is built for some more extreme temperatures. Right now I live in Montana and will be using them mostly in the northern part of the state and the rest of the northwest for the next year or so. My search through different reviews has led me towards La Sportiva's Nepal Evo GTX. Although I will be spending sometime in higher elevation up in Alaska. I know most people recommend a plastic boot more along the lines of the Koflach degre or arctis for higher places like Alaska's peaks. Anyone used the Nepal's for anything above 15,000 feet? I am not looking to purchase two pairs of boots so I'm just trying to find out which route to go. Thnks.


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Nov 8, 2011
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

I would not reccommend using nepals above 15,000 feet. If you want a boot for alaskan ranges , id reccomend la sportiva spantiks personally. the nepal would be fine for your currently location, but being a single boot it will not work well for what youd be doing elsewhere. Also id say synthetic/hybrid double boots over plastic double boots anyday.


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By BryanV
From Fort Collins, CO
Nov 8, 2011
Ouray Ice Park

I would recommend the Scarpa Phantom Guide or possibly the Phantom 6000. I love the Guide and they have worked for everything from vertical ice to winter mountaineering on 14ers, etc. The Spantik is a great option as well as the Batura Evo. You really can't go wrong with any of them, so try them all on if you can.

bv
www.whiteknuckled.com


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By Topher42
Nov 30, 2011

I recommend you get the boot that meets your needs the best but more importantly fits your foot correctly and comfortably. Otherwise it's pointless you'll never know that until you try them on. that being Said I think if one can afford it the new double synthetic boots are they way to go. Plastics are great but not worth the price buying them new. Get a nice used pair of plastics if your on a budget.


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By EROCK22
Dec 6, 2011

If you have a wide foot id recommend the scarpa since they changed their last a couple years ago and are making a boot that better fits most Americans feet. If you have a narrower foot or just plain average then your best bet is the La Sportiva Baruntse. Now i say Baruntse over the Spantik due to the Spantiks unique lace system that if fails in the high country is more of a pain to fix then a simple eyelet as found on the baruntse. notice how the Spantik is the ONLY boot on the market like this.... Baruntse with an overboot is more than enough for most on peaks like Denali, and alone will do be fine for any climb in winter in the lower 48.


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