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Which aid hooks are the most versatile?
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By Jon Rhoderick
Jul 18, 2012
I'm looking into doing a few routes over the next year (eg C2 routes like the Prow, Liberty Cap, Green Dragon/Town Crier) that require aid hooks. It seems like it would make sense to have 1 living on each aider so that they are always available. Appearently a "full set" is 3 hooks but I was wondering if people often get away with less, and which hooks, filed down or not, are the most versatile. Any suggestions on cam hooks would be appreciated as well.
Thanks guys!
Jon

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By Irish-Jane
From Ireland, sometimes
Jul 18, 2012
Terradets, Spain.
For 6 bucks you'll find out everything you ever possibly wanted to know, combined with some cool anecdotes and other useful info:

amazon.com/Hooks-ebook/dp/B008...

Andy knows his shit.

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By Joe Virtanen
From Asheville, NC
Jul 18, 2012
Pit BBQ
I personally wouldn't want a hook living on each aider. Those things get caught on EVERYTHING and it'd be far more trouble than it's worth.

Don't think you'll be hooking for many moves in a row on those routes you mentioned, so just keep them on the harness til you need them.

I've only done aid up to C2, but I have a cliffhanger, grappling hook, and a talon. Seems to work out ok on easy stuff.

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By ParkerKempf
From atlanta, GA
Jul 18, 2012
sweet belay on El Cap Spire, Salathe Wall El Capit...
Grappling, talon, narrow cam hook, wide cam hook. Dont rack them on your aider

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By Steve86
Jul 18, 2012
Definitely don't keep them on your aider. Aiding is enough of a cluster as it is.

Grappling is probably the most standard hook followed by a talon. The talon is technically more versatile since it has three hooks but I go for the grappling more often. Don't discount cam hooks -- these things are indispensable. I rather stand on a good cam hook than a good traditional hook 99 out of 100 times.

FWIW this is what I carry:
(2) grappling, talon, cliffhanger, and moses logan pointy -- each set on a biner
(2) micro, narrow, wide moses cam hooks -- each set on a biner
(1) pika ibis 3+ in the bag (why not)

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