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which 7.8mm rope?
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By Kyro
Apr 9, 2013
So im looking to get rid of using my sterling 9.8 for alpine and ice use this year and switch over to a twin/half rope system for longer rappels, lighter weight and of course the benefits of using a half system. Im stuck between the Sterling 7.8 Photon and the metolius monster 7.8. The main reason im looking at the monster is because its 4g/m lighter then the sterling but have always been happy with my sterling ropes and have no experience with Metolius. Anyone have any experience with either rope? is there another brand I should be considering?

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By Brassmonkey
Apr 9, 2013
Brass monkey
mountainproject.com/v/time-to-...

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By Jon H
From Boulder
Apr 9, 2013
At the matching crux
I've got the Monsters. Bought them for long ice/alpine routes where they are fantastic, but after using them on rock, I'm slightly less excited about their durability. I should qualify that statement though - I believe any ~7mm rope would be noticeably less durable than what you're used to with a fatter single rope.

My single is about ready to be retired so for this rock season I'm going with the Mammut 8.5 doubles (Genesis I think?) and leaving the super skinny cords for ice, for both durability reasons and also because falling on a 7.7mm rope scares the piss out of me. I've never fallen on ice (and don't plan to change that in the future) but do occasionally peel off climbing trad routes - I'd hate to have to boink up on something that resembles a shoelace.

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By Ryan N
From San Louis Obispo
Apr 9, 2013
RJN
I climb the photons, so do a couple partners. There awesome. Light and pack down small. Can't go wrong.

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By Kyro
Apr 9, 2013
can you give me a est on how small they pack down? thats also a huge factor to me. Mainly use all ultralight stuff so size and weight are the biggest factors behind durability for normal use.

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By Richard88
From Sheridan, WY
Apr 10, 2013
piney creek canyon
I have a brand new dry treated 70m sterling fusion photon for sale in the FS section....if you're interested shoot me a pm

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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Apr 10, 2013
Middle
Twins and doubles are not lighter than singles.

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By Ryan N
From San Louis Obispo
Apr 10, 2013
RJN
This is a 60m-

Next to a#3
Next to a#3

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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Apr 10, 2013
Ray Pinpillage wrote:
Twins and doubles are not lighter than singles.


Dis right here.

But man does that 60 pack small.

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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Apr 10, 2013
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.
Ray Pinpillage wrote:
Twins and doubles are not lighter than singles.


but they can be lighter than single + second rope for rappeling (tag line/ice floss etc...)

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By Courtney Pace
Apr 10, 2013
I also climb on the photon half ropes. Going on the third season. Mostly rock and some ice. No complaints

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By Kevin Craig
Apr 10, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
If you don't need 70s, the Metolius Monster ropes are amazing. Extremely durable, best water-proofing in the business, handle well, all the good stuff.

If you need 70s, Tendon Masters or Sterling Photons in that order.

Regarding twins/doubles vs. single. Actually, a single, skinny (9.1 ish) single plus a 6ish mm retrieval cord IS lighter than even 7.8 doubles. Just depends on if you want/need to split the rope weight evenly and/or want to deal with a retrieval cord.

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By Kyro
Apr 10, 2013
thanks for the photo! looks like it does pack down pretty small. I think I may just go with the photons

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By Kevin Craig
Apr 10, 2013
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
And there you have it folks! Verification that a picture is indeed worth 1000 words. Lord knows, the most important thing about a rope is how it looks in a picture.

You do realize that pretty much all 7.8mm ropes will pack down to roughly the same size, right?

Reminds my why I stopped giving gear advice on the internet.

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By Kyro
Apr 10, 2013
haha no I get that all will pack down that small but from my research the link and what others have said I think ill go with the photons since i get a pro deal on them. As for not just using a single with a pull line to save weight is I do like the idea of redundancy on long alpine routes as well as the ability for me and my partner to rap at the same time if we need to descend quickly.

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