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|FA: ||Vachon, Bieger, Lang, 10/01|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Darin Lang on Oct 1, 2002|
Bernard Vachon with a fantastic view on the summit...
This is not highly recommended, but probably not a bomb either, especially if you're one of those masochistic souls that enjoys an "adventure" as much as really good climbing. This route certainly looks compelling from the road, but appearances are quite deceiving in this case. Expect rotten, loose granite the whole way up, with reasonably hard moves above gear that is less than bombproof. The position on the 5.10c crux almost makes the whole route worth it, though - an overhanging hand/fist crack with a couple hundred feet of air below.
P1: Identify a chimney in approximately the center of the crag (see photo). Climb the rotten chimney for 50', and exit right when rockfall or continued blood loss prevent further ascent. Traverse rightward about 35' on rotten, exfoliating rock to an obvious ledge. Clean out a small crack with your nut tool, and belay. 5.8s
P2: Move slightly right from the belay, and then head straight up over a rotten, malevolent bulge (no gear, 5.9 s+), to gain steep, broken rock below a roof that caps a wet, left-facing dihedral. Work up into the dihedral with very poor gear(rotten rock), until it is obvious to stem onto the right wall, and gain a right leaning hand/fist crack (crux, 5.10c). Jam the crack (rotten and crumbly - #6 Friend protects final moves)out the end of the roof, make an exciting mantle (rotten rock), and follow your nose to a belay near the summit. (5.10c s) Do a short, easy third pitch, or unrope and scramble over easy terrain about 35' to the summit.
Descent: Keep sniffing down the backside of the crag, to a short, but steep downclimb (rotten rock). Either downclimb or sling a large boulder and rap off. Hike/bushwhack back around to the base.
RPs to #6 Friend. Long slings. Tolerance for chossy granite and questionable gear.
Darin Lang starts up the first pitch chimney of "W...