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Where would be a good place to multi pitch in NC
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By William Turner
From Carmel, Indiana
Jan 21, 2014

Me and a buddy are going to nc soon to practice placing pro and multi pitch. We both are ok at trad. I was you guys could tell me somewhere we could multipitch 400+ ft but with relatively easy placements somewhat close together. The last place I went to practice trad was Cedar Rock South Side That was a scary as shit experience there was like 1 or two placements and maybe a bolt between pitches. Thanks in advance for your help


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Jan 21, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

Looking glass. Shortoff or linville amphitheater IF it's really sunny.


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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
Jan 21, 2014
Edge of a Dream

Table Rock is an ideal place for practicing multi-pitch and placing gear. There are a handful of routes you can climb in the 5.4-5.6 range that have many bolts and opportunity for gear in between. Never desperate or unsafe. The only caveat is the gate going up to the TR parking lot is closed, thus you will have roughly a mile hike in, you'd probably have the place to yourselves however.

I wouldn't recommend the Amphitheater for a few reasons, even though it does have what your looking for. A: your going to add another mile and a half or so to the approach, assuming you've never been there before it can be a bit tricky. B: The decent gully has mounds of ice right now in certain places, it could be a dangerous endeavor just getting to the base of the climbs.

mountainproject.com/v/jim-dandy/105874054
mountainproject.com/v/cave-route/106098708
mountainproject.com/v/north-ridge/105873517
mountainproject.com/v/my-route/105925492

Not sure exactly the grade your looking for, these are mostly beginner routes and very mellow. Check out the Table Rock page there are great routes of all grades. Bring two sixties and you can pretty much figure a way off TR without having to top out and walk down. I would recommend topping out at the end of the day. One of the best views on the East Coast. mountainproject.com/v/table-rock/105873288


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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
Jan 21, 2014
Edge of a Dream

I also saw your post about heading to Yosemite to climb El Cap. The North Side of Looking Glass is the closest to Yosemite your going to get on the East Coast. This place is full of steep amazing free climbs and great stuff to practice your aid as well. I wish I had a little more time to spend here last year before I attempted an El Cap route. Good Luck!

mountainproject.com/v/north-side/106523674


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Jan 21, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

from the other thread...if your trying to climb el cap and the runouts on cedar unnerve you then you've got bigger problems. In all honesty training wise your best bet is to go to laurel and do as many routes in a day as you can. I was training for half dome - which didnt materialize - and we did two full routes on the knob, and then a full route on whitesides all 5.10 in a day.

Looking Glass
you need to go do cornflake crack at the north face, the womb, the sperm, the seal, creatures of waste
then go to the nose and do Dum Dee Dum Dum, hyperbola
then go to the sunwall and do tits and beer, scotty pippen
south side dinkus dog, wind walker, rats ass, unfinished concerto, gemini crack, B52

that should get you started in what you need to know to handle multipitch granite.

then go to shortoff and do as much as you can in a day there.

Suffer through routes at hawksbill winged mongrel, aeros, fat lady, jeeps chimner

then go to whitesides and do as many in a day - catholic school girls direct, traditions would be two good ones as would boulder problem in the sky

you have a long ways to go from climbing at the RRG.


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Jan 21, 2014
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

Pilot Mtn is definitely your best bet for El Cap training. It may not be very tall, but it simulates El Cap routes better than any other NC climbing area. The next best option would be Crowders.


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Jan 21, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

csproul wrote:
Pilot Mtn is definitely your best bet for El Cap training. It may not be very tall, but it simulates El Cap routes better than any other NC climbing area. The next best option would be Crowers.


crowders climbing is nothing like yosemite granite????


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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
Jan 21, 2014
Edge of a Dream

rock_fencer wrote:
crowders climbing is nothing like yosemite granite????


I think he was joking…


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Jan 21, 2014
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

Jonathan Dull wrote:
I think he was joking…


Ah, missed that!

hope this guy manages to pull it off....long way to go from what he's posted.

I'll add that you should probably go to T-Wall or NRG and do as many cracks as you can in a row. If you can get to RRG more easily there are tons of stuff in the northern gorge to help you refine your skills though sandstone and granite climb differently i think


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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
Jan 21, 2014
Edge of a Dream

rock fencer is spot on. South side of LG will have your "slabby" cracks, while the North Side will really give you an opportunity on steeper cracks and practice your aid. If your training for EL Cap you should spend all your time at these areas. Even if its cold as balls you can aid some of the stuff on the South Side. A lot of the beginning pitches of El Cap routes are less than vertical cracks with tricky aid. The Nose in particular.

Grab some off-set cams and small brass and plug them suckers as much as possible. There are pretty much mandatory on Yosemite pin scarred cracks, plus they are really great for free climbing in NC. You should spend as much time in the aiders as you can before attempting any big-wall.

I haven't been to The North Side this winter but sometimes big ice will be coming down from the top, something to keep in mind.


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By Jonathan Dull
From NC High County
Jan 21, 2014
Edge of a Dream

Build a crack machine to practice on and run laps. I did and could tell a big difference from my first trip to The Valley, you won't regret it.


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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Jan 23, 2014
Thumbtastic

Step one: Climb Cave Route on Table. Tremble at the slab bones, the shrubbery, the large ledges.

Step two: best Yuji's time on the Stovelegs.

Wait, did I skip a step?

Step 1.5: Climb everything you can get your hands on for the next five years, do some smaller walls when you're ready.


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By William Turner
From Carmel, Indiana
Jan 27, 2014

It seems that we're going to the Red River Gorge so much for practicing multi pitch this weekend. If any one knows where would practice some aid climbing. Preferably in muir valley. Thank in advance


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By William Turner
From Carmel, Indiana
Jan 27, 2014

VaGenius wrote:
Step one: Climb Cave Route on Table. Tremble at the slab bones, the shrubbery, the large ledges. Step two: best Yuji's time on the Stovelegs. Wait, did I skip a step? Step 1.5: Climb everything you can get your hands on for the next five years, do some smaller walls when you're ready.


Stop trolling please thanks :)


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