Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Iron Hayden Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beer Mule T 
Evil That Men Do, The S 
Killers T 
King of Twilight T 
Run To The Hills T 
Runnin' Free T 
Stairway to Hayden T 
Sun & Steel T 
Where Vultures Dare T 

Where Vultures Dare 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jersey Dave Littman and Craig Rudy Martin 1992/2008
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 2,733
Submitted By: jersey on Feb 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: where vultures dare topo

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Way back in ’92 I was a 24-year-old climbing keener with aspirations for unclimbed rock. Believing that if you just look a little farther than the last guy, the fruit is out there just waiting to be picked, and you know I’m right.
Well back in ’92, after a few recon trips. Craig Martin and I carried every piece of gear we owned at the time out to the Iron Hayden Wall, which probably wasn’t all that much stuff but surely included some slung hexes and a few pitons, but not a bolt kit at that time. As we approach the buttress it’s obvious that this wide crack system ascends the first half of the wall to a large ledge had what we were looking for. We roped up and I lead out the full 200-foot rope to the big ledge. The rock was solid and climbing was steep and more fun than scary. I belayed Craig up and he led up about 30 feet further before loose rock and the desire for bolt protection turned us around. Back on the belay ledge we pounded in a baby angle and fixed a nut. And equalized them with along piece of one inch webbing, not to return until we had more skills and bolts.
Flash forward 15 years 2008. The conversation goes like “Hey Craig, remember the Hayden Wall, I don’t think anyone’s been up there, do you? It’s about time we got a power drill and went back up there” “Yep your probably right”. So that’s what we did.
15 years seemed like yesterday. Back to the ledge, I haul up the drill kit and power in two nice bomber anchor bolts in the bulletproof quartzite and belayed Craig up. The original rappel anchor was still there the nut had some how fallen out, probably the wind, and was dangling from the piton at the end of the sun bleached webbing. There were no signs that anyone had visited this ledge in the last decade and a half.
Continuing on, the next pitch started out with the cleaning out of a stacked tower of rubble blocks which left behind a short but sweet steep 5.9 pitch with thin pro. Ending after about 50 feet on another nice ledge do to rope drag and loose rocks. Following the path of least resistance and trying to skirt around this huge roof overhead we headed straight left on the fourth pitch. Up easier ground into a cavy nook under the roof. The last pitch starts with a bouldery bolt-protected 5.10ish crux. Heading left up a steep inside corner with a loose blocky finish to the top of the buttress.
We rappelled the route installing the rest of the anchor stations on the way back down. We knew we had found something great. The walls all around us were featured and solid and looked like awesome climbing. Similar to the Gunks, but above tree-line at 11,000 feet, with lots of horizontal cracks, ledges and edges and roofs. This route would become the access point for the sheer faces all around us.

Location 

The route is visible from the approach trail, starts 60 feet in from the right edge of the Iron Hayden Wall.

Protection 

1 set of cams to 4 inch, 1 set of nuts, 1 200ft. rope
bolted anchors, rappel the route or walk off


Photos of Where Vultures Dare Slideshow Add Photo
Photo by Craig Martin.  Julie is leading on the fi...
Photo by Craig Martin. Julie is leading on the fi...
4th pitch
4th pitch
The mission that lies before us! ('X' marks the sp...
BETA PHOTO: The mission that lies before us! ('X' marks the sp...
Mere minutes away from the base of the buttress!
Mere minutes away from the base of the buttress!
Getting O so much closer!
Getting O so much closer!
All very comfortable belays
All very comfortable belays
Beauty and the beast (from left to right)
Beauty and the beast (from left to right)
Be Boss of the Choss for this approach!!
Be Boss of the Choss for this approach!!
At the top!!
At the top!!
A tense moment on 'Where Vultures Dare'.....
A tense moment on 'Where Vultures Dare'.....
The top out of 'Where Vultures Dare'
The top out of 'Where Vultures Dare'
1st pitch of Vultures.
1st pitch of Vultures.
A beautiful and dramatic top out
A beautiful and dramatic top out
Where Mountain Goats dare!!
Where Mountain Goats dare!!
A "relic" from the '92 ascent. It was a ...
A "relic" from the '92 ascent. It was a ...
A distinct architectural feature along the approac...
BETA PHOTO: A distinct architectural feature along the approac...
Annie starting the 2nd pitch.
Annie starting the 2nd pitch.
It begins
It begins

Comments on Where Vultures Dare Add Comment
Show which comments
By thehackattacks
From: Park City, UT
Jun 27, 2015

Moving right to a small corner on pitch three (and avoiding the bolts off to the left) adds an extra, full-value crux section with thin pro. This route has fun moves on bomber rock from top to bottom!!
By Craig Martin
From: Park City
Jul 28, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

thehackattacks
Jun 27, 2015
Moving right to a small corner on pitch three (and avoiding the bolts off to the left) adds an extra, full-value crux section with thin pro. This route has fun moves on bomber rock from top to bottom!!

It should be noted that the crux mentioned above is not an extra crux, but "the crux" of the route as it was originally done on the FA. It was also the place that we stopped in 1992 and bailed because the protection was poor. In 2008 we went back and sent it with out adding any fixed gear.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Aug 3, 2015

I linked pitches 3&4 using what appears to be the upper Beer Mule variation - great pro thru the hard climbing (save a 2 camalot). Thanks for all the hard work and sharing. Curious if anyone has ventured up into the overhang?
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!