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Aug 17, 2010
The crux.  Photo by Nathan Gerhardt
If you could live anywhere in the US and have access (within a 1 hour drive) to the most year round hard sport climbing (5.13 and harder), where would you live? Aimee Rose
From Bend, or
Joined Mar 23, 2006
1,704 points
Aug 17, 2010
Vervet Monkeys know which site is best.
I'll help narrow this one down...NOT Massachusetts! DFrench
From Cape Ann
Joined Apr 22, 2007
510 points
Aug 17, 2010
Carbondale, Colorado or Lexington, Kentucky. JJNS
Joined Sep 30, 2008
505 points
Administrator
Aug 18, 2010
El Chorro
Aimee Rose wrote:
If you could live anywhere in the US and have access (within a 1 hour drive) to the most year round hard sport climbing (5.13 and harder), where would you live?


There's really only two places east of the Mississippi that fit that bill. The Red and the New. Lexington is a real city thats less than an hour from the Red. Fayetteville is a very a nice place to live and is less than 20 min from most of the climbing at the New.

I would never want the Red to be my home crag. Not enough variety in the climbing and there is really nothing else there... except meth trailers. Unless you like single pitch trad, all you can do is pull on pockets. Jug haul mania... I would just get bored. Absolutely nothing to do on a rest day either.

The New is a much better climbing destination and Fayetteville is a much nicer place to live. There is all kinds of climbing on usually more solid rock. More technical climbing than the Red and more potential for new routes. Entire areas that haven't been discovered yet. Excellent paddling in the area as well and good biking.

If I only wanted to climb sport I wouldn't live in the US. Our sport climbing is kind of a joke compared to what they have in Europe and Asia.
Ryan Williams
From London (sort of)
Joined May 10, 2009
1,468 points


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