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Oct 21, 2009
Darby Canyon
I've been climbing for around 8 months and I've been constantly asking myself, "Am I where I should be at for bouldering?" I just don't know...I want to know if I'm above average, below average or what? Could anyone help me??? I sent my first V3 within a week of first starting to climb in Squamish and almost sent a V4 by the time I left, which was 2 weeks later. Now I'm projecting a boulder that I should get a FA on. Everyone that I've talked to has said it will go V9-V10. I'm only two moves from the top and should get it at my next session. The hardest problem I've sent is a V6+. So where am I???? Am I sitting ok? Conor Raney
From Pinedale, WY
Joined Sep 5, 2009
3,170 points
Oct 21, 2009
Wide abgle!
Go do a bouldering comp, you'll find out quick :) Andrew James C
From Portland, OR
Joined Sep 15, 2009
549 points
Oct 21, 2009
Alpine toothpick.
Andrew C wrote:
Go do a bouldering comp, you'll find out quick :)

That's good advice, but I usually campus V3 in the gym, and haven't even come close to that outside.
England
From ?
Joined Aug 26, 2008
281 points
Oct 21, 2009
Crux Move
below average compared to a chipmunk.

above average compared to a potato.

hope that helps.
Phil Lauffen
From The Bubble
Joined Jun 20, 2008
2,113 points
Oct 21, 2009
Mens Crisis Center .12a
"Am I OK?"

Are you having fun? Climbing for numbers can provide immediate satisfaction, no doubt.

The finest and most satisfying boulder problems I've ever done have been ones that I had to work at...hard work. That's what bouldering should be...work.

Sounds like you're doing fine though.
Ian G.
From PDX, OR
Joined Apr 13, 2009
346 points
Oct 21, 2009
Final steps up Blanca after a snowy traverse.  Pho...
You are above average. But the rock is better than you. Daniel Trugman
From La Jolla, CA
Joined Oct 14, 2007
1,408 points
Oct 21, 2009
Darby Canyon
yeah all of those help. i just am kinda of insecure i guess, cuz i want to be a good climber and want people to be able to take me climbing that are really good climbers. and yeah, the funnest thing i've ever done bouldering, is working this V9 boulder. but thanks for the help, i just figured a community of climbers would be able to help me answer my question. thank you. Conor Raney
From Pinedale, WY
Joined Sep 5, 2009
3,170 points
Oct 21, 2009
Dude your awesome, keep us posted, I want to follow your progress! JPVallone
Joined Aug 25, 2004
204 points
Oct 22, 2009
You are doing really well! But remember you are still going to die :)
Better get after it!
k. riemondy
From Boulder, Co
Joined Oct 3, 2006
92 points
Oct 22, 2009
Climb more, worry less. Lanky
From Tired
Joined Jun 20, 2008
407 points
Oct 22, 2009
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
have you had a probability/statistics class yet conor? Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,752 points
Oct 22, 2009
Darby Canyon
haha your right...i am still gonna die. But I didn't have to take statistics in college, why??? lol. Conor Raney
From Pinedale, WY
Joined Sep 5, 2009
3,170 points
Oct 27, 2009
I think the OP is fishing for compliments.. he knows he's pretty good so he sprays about grades on-line. Spend more time bouldering and having fun than telling people how good you are on-line. Marc-Andre
From Squamish, B.C
Joined Jul 16, 2007
813 points
Oct 27, 2009
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
Conor Raney wrote:
haha your right...i am still gonna die. But I didn't have to take statistics in college, why??? lol.

was just eluding to that the comparison to the "average" you seek is dependent on what population you are interested in and if is normally distributed, (etc etc >>insert geek-talk<< blah blah blah). you simply asked/cared how you measure up. but to who?

for example. if you were to drop yourself in the middle of Boulder, CO, you would be a dime a dozen. everyone climbs "hard" there, (and they will let you know it.) but drop yourself in the middle of, say, Nebraska, you would be a rock star.

EDIT: as you get older you will realize that there will always be someone that climbs "harder" and always be some one that doesnt, in some way or another. much like Phil's comment above regarding potato and chipmunk. or you will care less.

(and yes, even Sharma.)
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,752 points
Oct 27, 2009
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
Marc-Andre wrote:
I think the OP is fishing for compliments.. he knows he's pretty good so he sprays about grades on-line. Spend more time bouldering and having fun than telling people how good you are on-line.

isnt that also what twitter and 8a.nu are for?
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,752 points
Oct 28, 2009
Bad Sock Puppet
First off dude Congrats! It's obvious you've been working hard and if you keep it up you could go far.

Now to potentially piss on your parade a little:

Most importantly ratings are so subjective they don't mean as much as you might think as a beginner climber. There's always more than one way to do a move and each way is a different difficulty for each person. For example there were several cracks in Indian Creek that were down-graded simply because women were sending them easier than men due to their smaller hands, despite the fact that these cracks were rated by one of the best crack climbers ever.

I've also noticed with bouldering it's easy to get good quick but then again a lot of people can climb just as hard of problems when you get to try the same move 50+ times. Plus many climbers tend to get a little over anxious and think that just because they sent one V9 or 5.13a that they're now V9 or 5.13a climbers, which is FAR from the truth.

Personally I quit bouldering as much because I didn't see much point in being able to send a V6 within a few goes, but get completely pumped out on a 5.11a sport climb. Now my goal is to get to where I can climb decent in any form of climbing. To each his own I guess.

P.S. If you can boulder that hard in LCC, UT then you're good! lol
Bad Sock Puppet
Joined Jun 22, 2008
595 points
Oct 28, 2009
Me, of course
WiledHorse wrote:
if you were to drop yourself in the middle of Boulder, CO, you would be a dime a dozen. everyone climbs "hard" there, (and they will let you know it.)


I don't climb hard :(
Evan S
From Erie, CO
Joined Dec 30, 2007
550 points


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