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Maranatha Area
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Where Real Men Dare 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Steve Erskine, Rick Skidmore, 1976
Page Views: 1,263
Submitted By: Kris Gorny on May 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Stymied at the crux.

Description 

Great warm-up climb...and the busiest at this part of the cliff. The climb starts with tricky overhangs that lead to a ledge below a crack in a right-facing corner. Go up the crack (crux) and set up anchors on trees up top.

Location 

The climb is located in a right facing corner, roughly 20 yards along the cliff past orange wall with Agent Orange.

Protection 

Medium cams and a set of nuts. Longer slings for the bottom to avoid drag.


Photos of Where Real Men Dare Slideshow Add Photo
medium to large pro, although i did use a "tcu" in the middle somwhere.
BETA PHOTO: medium to large pro, although i did use a "tcu" in...

Comments on Where Real Men Dare Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 16, 2010
By DaveB
May 16, 2007

A #5-6 Friend may provide comfort for the faint-hearted near the top. Also, bolted anchors now on upper-left wall.
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 16, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It is so dirty and flared up there that I wouldn't trust a cam near the anchor, you really just have to suck it up and go for it. (After it has rained)
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
May 17, 2007

Didn't know the bolts were added there. Dave you think they can be used for Talking with Angels?
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 17, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The bolts are on the left wall maybe 3 feet away from the actual corner, I don't know if you can use them with any other climb.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
May 17, 2007

It may sound like blasphemy but I would actually add anchors to all trad lines at the New. This would save a number of trees.
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 17, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Some of the routes are climbed so infrequently that the trees see no real use, they don't need anchors.
However, many of the trad lines at the popular crags have already been given bolt anchors over the past 2 years. This process is still ongoing, so many lines that deserve anchors haven't gotten them...yet.

I think that this is the practical approach to leave the least trace we can. Areas that have not embraced anchors soon enough are suffering, such as Otter Cliffs at Acadia, as well as Bridge Buttress and Junkyard at the NRG.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
May 17, 2007

Agree -- sometimes, adding top anchors leaves less trace than not. Just look at the top of Bridge Buttress, Remission, or Happy Hands. I didn't realize that trees get their life supply through their outer layers and that the slings and ropes can cut them off.
By DaveB
May 17, 2007

Yes, agree in regards to anchors, tree damage, less trace, and more trad routes still needing them.

Kris, it appears anchors atop 'Real Men' specifically positioned for that route...smooth rope flow over roofs...TR'ing, lowering, etc.

Ladd, perhaps the installation of new anchors has allowed crack to remain cleaner?...eliminating dirt from rain/tree/root erosion, etc. Last I saw (4 days ago), wide crack at the top was relatively clean and bone dry. Dude in the above photo plugged a bomber #6 Friend (deep) that would've held an elephant.
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 17, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Sweet,
It is always a bummer being the first person to climb and route in the NRG after it rains because of the dirt left over from runoff.
By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
May 18, 2007

I would have to say that in alot of areas adding anchors increases clifftop damage (Bridge Buttress and Junkyard come to mind).
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 6, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

At the top you can also girth hitch and small tree route, it'll hold falls, not that you'll fall there... it isn't hard just a little above your pro.
By C Runyan
From: Pennsylvania
Jun 4, 2008

Just to be clear, slinging trees -- while unsightly -- does not damage their cambium and phloem (the vascular layer beneath the bark that carries water and nutrients).

Climbers damage trees when they rap from a tree without using a sling, and then pull the rope. While rare to see these days, this practice, done repeatedly over time, can saw through the bark and then the cambium, causing damage to a tree.

I have no comment about the wisdom of placing anchors on trad routes, but please don't assume that bolted anchors automatically save trees.
By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Jul 4, 2008

I would actually advocate adding rap anchors on heavily trafficked trad lines (such as this one). I believe C Runyan regarding mechanism of tree damage but the reality is that, unless the solid slings are already there, many people will put the rope around the tree and pull it after rapping. Maybe not at places where you can easily hike to the top and retrieve the slings but definitely at Endless. Why should sport routes be the only routes with healthy trees above them? Just a thought.
By attila
May 16, 2010

I also girth hitched to the handle-like root near the top as another commenter did. Better than nothing. Otherwise, the route protects well. A few lay-back moves at the crux worked well for me. This is a fun route.